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The over-temperature manual reset has never tripped. There is another temperature sensor (NTC) but it is behind the combustion chamber cover and I ain't touching that! Water temperature on the hot tap is variable, it sometimes runs a bit cold and sometimes too hot. So if this was working...

It certainly doesn't come on at 2.7l/m - see my other post today, it won't come on until about 6.5l/m. I do notice that there's a lot of cycling, even when hot water is running next to the boiler, it turns the burners off and on, and the DHW temp fluctuates. Should that be happening?

This is a pic of the restrictor - there is a bit more plastic inside the fitting and it could easily go back (but note that this problem was happening prior to me removing it). The rubber part is actually fine. Yes, the ch pipe does get hot. By flow isolator, do you mean on the heating outlet...

This (and sorry earlier person for not trying) has helped. The minimun flow at the boiler is 6.5l/m. In the upstairs shower I was getting about 5l/m with the thermostatic mixer at ful-hot, and the same at full-cold. BUT I tried it with the shower head off and I got the full 12l/m so swapped it...

Hiya, Sorry to resurrect this, I've still got the original problem. I've replaced the diverter valve and micro switch, and set the switch to the most sensitive angle it allows. I've replaced the heat plate. I've added non-return valves to a mixer tap that was permitting back pressure onto...

@Gasguru @gas112 Sorry to bug you, any comment on the last message? Current behaviour is that the upstairs shower does start hot, but after a few mins ran cold and would not come hot until the tap was turned off and back on.

OK, I changed the diverter, no issues, no leaks after recommissioning, hot water working fine. Or so I thought. After running the tap for a few minutes I noticed the water temp fluctuates a bit, and the burner cycles at the same time. It's always done this, and I assumed it was normal - the...

Thanks so much for your advice - I'll feedback once I've done the job! Probably flush out the heat plate while I'm at it, very hard water here.

Well, I found one for £140, new in box, nothing cheaper available unless you go for a refurb and it sounds like there's plenty that they would miss out. Oh well, the boiler owes me nothing, it's been a trooper for >20y. I see the DV comes with a few o-rings and washers, but I imagine there are...

Well that's the afternoon ruined now. Are these repair kits worth a go? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374804359345?epid=1227763116

I can see that would be the best approach as a contractor, but as a diy-er would you really not give it a go with the diaphragm, given it's a quick job?

Thanks, though that's ruined my morning! Got to be worth doing the diaphragm first I think, even if it might not work. The white arm works well for ground floor taps, it just doesn't move enough when it's the top of the house calling for hot water, where the flow is less. However, even when I...

I think the diaphragm in my diverter valve needs replacing. The little white arm that activates the microswitch moves fully when the downstairs hot tap runs (12l/m) but when the upstairs shower runs (6l/m), the arm barely moves. The specs say that the minimum DHW flow is 2.7l/m so am I right in...

So, thanks everyone, but I've decided to draw a line under this, it's a very inefficient machine and reluctantly I have to accept that buying a heat pump replacement is the sensible option.

Thanks. I desoldered the main power relay and tested it, seems fine, nice loud click, switched poles show continuity when energised, <1 ohn resistance. The board looks ok, I can't see any dry joints. There are other relays though, including one that looks like it switches on the secondary heater.

From the attached diagram, it looks like live goes via the main switch and the door switch, then to the motor, and then to the heater. Neutal goes to P-2 on the main controller board, then the two elements in the heater are controlled from there by completing the circuit via P-1 and P-3. There...

Thank you both. I took the heater to bits yesterday. Both cut outs were reading continuity and the two elements have the correct resistances for the rated power. The element does heat up sometimes, usually after the machine has not been touched for a day. But it always stops after a few minutes...

My old AEG vented dryer head developed a new fault. At the start of a cycle, it heats up, but soon the heater goes off and it runs indefinitely blowing cold air. I have checked: Door switch Drum heat sensor Heating element thermostats Vent and hose Seems like the behaviour I'd get if it was...

I'm an idiot! It was just a duff capacitor, but I'd forgotten there's a 30s timer between pressing start and the drum turning. I just wasn't waiting long enough.

Interesting thought about the callout. I know they sell spares, maybe it's possible to return them if not required.