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It is just a standard Vaillant 1200 x 600 mm rad with valves each end at the bottom and bleed cap, blanking cap at the top. Photo is one I found online.

No, only one bleed screw.

I have a double radiator that is getting hot at the front but staying cold at the back. Is it just a case of removing it and flushing? The system has always been run using antifreeze type inhibitor and is about 8 years old.

I tried adding some extra solder and it is no longer leaking. The pipe one end was plastic coated copper off a coil and I suspect it is slightly undersize. When I tried a compression olive on it, that seemed a sloppy fit.

I don't suppose the boiler service includes a specific gravity check on the system liquid. There is a chance that the plumbing job will introduce swarf or other contamination into the system so you could go for a flush / refill for peace of mind.

In 40 years of DIY I have accumulated various spare fittings of various ages. Yesterday I was doing a modification to cure a leak and managed to create a bigger leak! I used an old 15mm solder ring union / coupling. My uncle ( a former gas fitter) used to recommend you add a bit of extra solder...

The stat would operate the motorised valve to switch to heating rather than hot water (the default). On the existing setup a pipe stat on the feed pipe out of the boiler switches to CH at a given boiler temperature. The hot water is on gravity so the pump is switched by the microswitch in the...

I don't have TRVs because it is a solid fuel system and the radiators are acting as a heat sink to prevent the boiler from overheating. I'm adding a pellet boiler in addition to the log burner and the room stat is for use with that.

I would not use stuff like that unless you have a problem. These things don't tend to leak if assembled correctly with the washers provided. The only plumbing joints that worry me are PTFE taped threaded fittings. They date back to the days of iron pipe that needed a thread cut on each end...

I am wanting to add a Horstmann HRT2 thermostat to an existing central heating system. With it not wired I can hear it clicking when I turn it to above or below room temperature. This would suggest I could connect it using 2 core cable (live and switched live). The instructions say terminal 4...

I've experienced worse in my own house, although not in UK. There was a mixture of aluminium and copper wiring. They don't use twin & earth or ring mains but wiring runs in conduit high up on the wall, with junction boxes above switches and sockets. Every cable join was done by twisting and...

I'm currently installing a solid fuel central heating boiler i.e. the plumbing is not for potable water. This is in Croatia where the only fittings for copper are end feed. I've been using up an old reel of leaded solder but have come to the end of that. I do have Fluxite flux (after trying...

It would be better to find the leaks. Sometimes all it needs is a gland nut tightening on one of the radiator valves.

This stuff does irritate me as nobody seems to have noticed that we no longer plumb in radiators using iron pipe. Why can't they just come with short 22mm stub outlets that would go onto a compression or push fit plastic fitting?

I might have to make something like that, perhaps using a length of iron water pipe, if I can find any big enough. I miss Screwfix, I used to be able to order stuff from them before Brexit.

I had forgotten that I already posted about this engine! I had also forgotten that anything got destroyed! At least I did find the model number, 82232.

I had forgotten about soil stacks (I think we called them stench pipes) as they do not appear to exist outside UK.

If you do fit anything to limit movement of the machine it would be best to have something soft like rubber or cardboard between that and the surfaces of the machine.

I have an old Clarke generator that uses this engine. I actually stripped it a few years ago to investigate it not starting but then other priorities prevented me from putting it back together. I had hoped there would be workshop manuals available online but suppose, being an American product...

This is the sort of stuff that should be taught in schools. There might be warning labels on extension cables but they usually assume some basic understanding of amps, watts etc. that not everyone has.