Search results

That makes perfect sense. I also pre-drill with a 3mm bit which works well.

I can't find any floorboard brads with sharp ends, they only sell the ones with the square ends which are harder to hammer in. Can you point me to a retailer that sell them?

Yes. Thanks

Thanks. Sorry if my question was confusing. I meant to ask about filling the gap between the bay and the window frame first and then paint the the windows, or the other way round? Does it matter? The wooden window/sashes don't need filling.the wood is as good as new although the preserver will...

I can get the Troupret masonry powder filler locally so that is easy. These hardwood sash windows are 3 years old. No need to stain-block. I will use a water-based primer, an undercoat, and Weathershield satin final coat unless you think it is not advisable. Whats a better way, fill gap first...

I am redecorating my wooden sash windows. They need repainting obs and the gap needs filling. I'm thinking of using sika mortar fix or a sand/cement mix. What's best, paint the windows first and then seal or the other way around?

Sorry but these are the best pics I can provide. When zoom in at the bird's eye image of the sill I can see the individual grains of sand and cement where managed to remove the top layer. The skirling boards were removed because I am changing the floor in the house. It is unrelated the problem...

I'll get the downpipe extended as you suggested. Can you explain a bit more about which hopper I need and how I would fit it onto my existing guttering? I'd also like to repair the sill even if foe aesthetics. What's a durable way of fixing it so it doesn't look so tatty?

Thanks. Does it matter if I use a straight coupler to extend or use an s-bend coupler so I can run the extended bit along the junction where a roof meets the wall on top of the lead flushing?

My guttering need sorting. The down pipe chuck the rainwater on the single story extension roof and is soaking the adjascent external wall. What's the best way of sorting it? Thanks in advance for your advice

There's a little bit of damp just under the window but hard to see in pic, see attached. I also cleaned up the tip of the sill and took a pic. It is very possible that the water is coming in through the lead flushing but it's like to be made worse by the downpipe that is chucking lots of water...

The pointing and flushing are not something I can do myself. The whole of the outside of the house is pointed with sand/cement mix. I can get someone to look at the flushing. What would be the right way of doing it so if I get it done I know what to ask for? I would like to start with this sill...

The window sills outside my windows have deteriorated. One is cracked the others seem in one piece (and have possibly become porous). It was painted with masonary paint but that has peeled off. I'd like to repair it rather than replace it. Here is how I thought of doing it: chisle off any loose...

My hearth needs repairing, the concrete edges have broken off when I changed the flooring around it. Do I make a form and fill the missing bits as is with sand and cement + Or do I need to chisel off a bit more of the old concrete to make the repair stronger? mix? Do I need to add a polymer to...

The hearth needs repairing, the concrete edges have broken off when I changed the flooring around it. Do I make a form and fill the missing bits as is with sand and cement + Or do I need to chisel off a bit more of the old concrete to make the repair stronger? mix? Do I need to add a polymer to...

I got Cover Stain and applied the first coat. The description says it may be used under any solvent-based or water-based topcoat. But the person in the paint shop said that it will peel off if I use a water-based topcoat. What is your advice?

It's buckelled and shrunk

Thanks all for the advice. I'll try to find a replacement door then

Swapping it could be an idea. Yes, of course, it is probably vinyl wrap. Probably had a kettle underneath and that is why it peeled off I will look again for the manufacturer's name just in case but I haven't found it when I looked before.

Do you mean you had the same door or the same problem? Do you happen to know what the Howdens range of my door is called so I can look for a match? I'll try to use a strong PVA and see how it comes out. Is this what you would call a strong PVA or would you recommend something different?