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I see what you mean now. Just trying to avoid digging up the slabs and avoiding the waste pipe that runs parallel. I'd hate to drill through that!

I see your point. Esp if a cleat fell off then the cable would just 'hang' off the wall. Plastic conduit for the SWA to run through will look better aesthetically I suppose. Thanks for the ideas and inputs so far. Just trying to think this through properly.

Sure that'd make more sense.

Ok drew a small plan here. In a nutshell this is what I envisage.

Mmmm tonnes of ideas flowing.... FP 200 cable from consumer unit (RCD protected).... Then through wall and terminate in external box. In external box, SWA cable. From there follow the wall of the house before turning down to the ground and into a duct (ducting needed as paving going down...

I'll post pics of route. That may help.

You're right! Damn! Lol! Seriously, won't be long til we need signage for everything. Sounds reasonable. Shouldn't be too difficult to push cable through both the brick then breeze block. Did volt drop calcs last night and 4mm is more than adequate.

Thanks Mike. It's cavity walls I have. Breeze block then brick. Normally I'd drill from the outside in. Choose a mortar seam.

Everything has to be idiot proof these days..... 'beware contents hot' On another note my garage floor is concrete (where the consumer unit is)... Is it acceptable if swa comes down the wall below consumer unit, then takes a right angle out of the building, then takes another 90 degree...

Thanks for the images. Yes when we run cables in vehicles with a separate earth we earth the terminal boxes also. Same principle I guess.

I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. It will be getting tested by a qualified electrician. I want to try and do most of it on my own. Even If I install the 2 way consumer unit in the shed and wire all the lights and sockets up accordingly.

Because there is a ton of insulation in the loft. Like mountains of it! So was happy to connect onto the nearest cable I found. In hindsight it could have been done that way if I spent more time rolling the stuff up. But was content with what I was doing. There is a cupboard directly below...

38mm black poly pipe for electrical cables I have got. Quite thick too. Yeah once the cable goes through the wall, then down the wall in trunking (cant go below floor level as solid concrete!) its pretty much a straight run. Should have a nice long bend in the duct for the cable to go...

It will be buried. But... I need to put the ducting in first as paving will be going down before the shed is even built! So the ducting means it will allow me to provide power without having to dig up the paving. Or if the cable faults I can just pull it out.

True.... I suppose I could do everything up until that point and they can then do the final connection. If I run cable that is not SWA in ducting, will this be suitable? My interpretation from BS7671 would say yes as it stipulates armour protection. But double checking.

I want to run power out to the shed. Now I understand the principal, but lack possibly lack in some hands on skill to achieve it with regards to the board my consumer unit is mounted on. It would have been handy of there were accessible screws to lift the front face of the wooden paneling off...

Ohwell, here goes. Some pics of my (un)handy work! Double tube IP65 light mounted Switch fixed to the trusses Switch cable run to junction box 1 Junction box 1 Not enough slack in main circuit cable so had to use two junction boxes and piece a section of 1.5mm in...

Good read http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/16/elect-inst-outdoors.cfm?type=pdf

Possibly. Mostly energy saving in the house. Filament bulb was 65ohms... Energy saving zero due to it being a gas. Maybe tomorrow I'll get the final connection done then! Was a bit of a mare this evening.... The junction box split when screwed and had to buy another. The existing circuit did...

It's a 6A mccb. Ok opened the circuit I was tapping into for the new loft lighting..... Did a continuity and got a 'beep' between live and neutral! At first I thought.. 'Damn I've opened a light switch circuit.' however on turning the power back on and doing a polarity test, the brown beeped...