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Try before you buy seems to be catching on, but a week is the limit I would suggest you do your CV and try to pop round to the companies personally. In these times it is really difficult to get a company- it is also really difficult to get a decent apprentice I have one who will turn into...

In Scotland many local colleges run pre-apprenticeship courses where young uns are given 2 days theory, one day practical and this leaves 2 days to work with an employer if they wish Don't know if they run that stuff down south but it's worth a try I have an excellent apprentice at present...

It would be better to get someone in, but it may be prudent to split each outbuilding across a phase. This would lessen the volt drop on a single phase Back covering bit below; You should use a competent person for the work, links below In Scotland: Individuals registered...

I feel that a compromise has to be reached - unless you are charging a silly low price for labour, then an extra 2 hours won't make much difference When I change a board (did one today) I test each circuit individually and take it from there. When I quote I do preliminary checks, but not...

Get the electrician back - you may have a shared neutral on the lights for the landing light This will need sorting

Check when the building warrant was applied for. I suspect it may be before 2008. I don't do new builds as they want to scrimp and scrape on everything- much cheapness (quality suffers). I have seen new builds with 6mm for 8.5kw showers (and lots of insulation)

Try looking here for landlord electrial requirements England & Wales Guidance Scotland Guidance Hope this helps

I stopped buying MK 8 months ago due to poor build quality Rather you than me Better than Wylex though Got photos of the Wylex fault see link

This is an intersting thread Wylex would not be my first brand I would choose (especially for my own house) As far as certification goes, it's all up to you. You may (but probably won't) be asked to have the wiring checked if you sell (the Home Report is staying in Scotland, but HIP's are...

These older mcb's are really dodgy- I have had 2 or 3 fall apart when they were being removed (just as well the power was off) Better to change it for a new unit (preferably with an RCD)

Be careful Was at one last week where the boiler guy identified reverse polarity. Turned out to be a L-E fault on the hob and a bad earth- 58 Ohms. All the house metal work (sink, radiators, boiler, hob. oven) was at 240V or thereabouts This has the potential to be real saftey...

It's not an easy journey at present I have been trading since 2003 and my repeat business and word of mouth is just keeping thingd ticking over In Scotland join SELECT once you are qualified.See www.sbsc.uk.net for more info. Get 3-5 years post trade experience behind you before you go...

Additional CU's tend to be of the cheap and nasty type. They then mean you will have an isolator switch in each unit- could lead to confustion if somoene is doing DIY in future times The reason for 2 certs (if there are issues found when chsnging the old CU) means you get a 'clean' one for...

I would steer clear of additional consumer units You could replace the existing consumer unit and have it tested at the time. If there are any faults in the existing it would be noted on he cert. The electrician could issue 2 electrical installation certificates - one for the consumer...

There have been mentions about Wylex product recalls Wylex are in the same group as Crabtree and Volex (they are all Electrium brands) This is not good news if you have had a new consumer (of this brand) fitted since April 2009. I have heard rumblings on this, but it now apprears...

You could maybe ask electrium what is happenig with the 6A, 10A and 16A wylex product recall at the same time Lots of stories, but little info- not even a notice on their website

Best to pick something other than Volex :P

It's not a legal requirement Some of us do and others don't

OSG page 27 (also in big red book, but not to hand) Main protective bonding of metal services 411.3.1.2 Main protective bonding conductors are required to connect the following metallic parts to the main earthing terminal, where they are extraneous conductive parts: i) Metal water...

The (metal) central heating pipes also require protective bonding