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Yes, don't use an angle grinder on plaster / brick indoors. An SDS chisel will make very short work of plaster. If it's blown then it will pull off by hand or with a shovel slipped behind it. Once it's off you could line with plasterboard (don't skim) as long as the tiles + adhesive are...

Were the "PVA's okay" arguments based on it being a dry area? Even so why use PVA when you can use the sealer recommended for the adhesive you use? Apart from PVA (don't use it) you're other concern will be the weight bearing limit of the plaster and you're ability to remove the paint -...

Seriously or are you having a laugh?

You shouldn't need to do this for 5mm - you should be able to cope with it as you go. Either start thick or thin at the bottom depending on whether it's leaning towards or away from you (easier if it's leaning away - more care required if it's leaning towards you). Use a long spirit level to...

25mm Ply should will be more than enough. I think the minimum recommended is good quality 18mm. Use a batton and noggins as Lower suggested above. Don't tile directly to the ply - overboard the ply with 6mm hardie backer / similar or if there's UFH or it's a wet room - Marmox insulating...

Go landscape?

Yes, you need an insulation board. Lay min 10mm Marmox or equivalent straight onto the floorboards - use tile adhesive and mechanical fixings. No need for hardie or no more ply. Instructions at http://www.marmox.co.uk/products/marmox-waterproof-insulation-board

I'm not sure to be honest. You might try asking on a tiling forum with posters that lay lots of stone - there are lightening products that they might point you to. Or your tilers might be able to help you.

Honing is just polishing the tile to a point less than a fine polish - some materials won't take a fine polish - many Limestones won't. A high gloss would finish with a 1200 grit, honing would finish with something like a 400 grit. P60 is a rough grit for removing material, you wouldn't...

60 Grit is quite rough for honing, I think a silicone carbide P120 and 220 and finish on 400 would be more like it. You can find out more on http://www.atsdiamondtools.co.uk/home Is it possible that you're not just seeing surface oxidation and your sanding isn't just temporarily removing it?

You could try Lithofin MN Stainstop (not the plus which intensifies the colour) http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/lithofin-mn-stain-stop-natural-stone-impregnator-sealer-1-litre.html I've used it on Limestone and it didn't change the colour. It will have been a different Limestone though so no...

It's not intended to stop the floor flexing vertically so make sure the floorboards don't deflect/bounce before it's fitted.

It looks like you can see the joists so maybe just screw some floor boarding down.

I'd suggest you use something like Weber Set Plus http://www.tiletown.co.uk/default.aspx?pageID=975 for adhesive and Weber Joint Pro http://www.tiletown.co.uk/default.aspx?pageID=976 for grout. The grout is mould resistant and will be 100 times better than the ready mixed stuff.

I think you may have problems with ready mix drying out on tanking. I'd use cement based - which would be better anyway.

What tile adhesive are you using?

CRL do a lot of Glass / Mirror fittings - http://www.crlaurence.co.uk/adv/eu/crl/index_uk.html. Search for "mirror". They also do silicone for fixing mirrors. If you fix the mirrors first they may get damaged so I'd say leave a hole and fix later - make a template maybe or just mark it on...

Was there a thick layer of bitumen that was acting as a damp proof? If there was and it was damaged / part removed when the floor was done ....

Skimmed plaster will take 20kg m2 & unskimmed plasterboard (& most tanking kits) will take 32kg. So depends on tile + adhesive weights but you might be fine tanking.

Maker sure it will take the weight of the tiles.