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Keep them. If you need to repair you won't be able to get a match.

I'd typed a longer response myself but then I realised that the OP hadn't said what surfaces were to be tiled - 4 walls? Floor? Part walls, Part floors? Tile sizes will also impact on wastage from cuts. And tile material will impact on wastage. Good advice to buy more than you need - you...

How did you calculate this as 16.2 m2? And does the bathroom have things like door and window openings? You need to measure the area that will be tiled and then allow for cuts, wastage and spares for later.

I have a different wet saw - a Dewalt 2500 & the pump just goes in the water tray fully submerged. I'm assume that this is similar.

Weber tiling adhesives are very good - at least as good as BAL.

If the cement render is coming away then remove it. No point tiling on a surface that may come away. The cement render may well be a plaster base coat - cement render isn't easy to shift.

Would have been much more sensible to put Orbry boards on the shower walls instead of Hardie.

If it is cement render then you can tile on to it - get the plaster skim off it first though & prime it. Make sure it is render though & not a plaster basecoat - which can not be tiled on. Safest route would be to hack it back to blocks (to save the 12mm) and fix 6mm hardiebacker or...

Separate powdered adhesives and grouts work much better than the combined ready mixed fix-n-grout products. For mosaics - get the substrate completely flat & for the normal thin mosaics use a 4mm notched trowel so that they bed flat & you don't get too much squeeze through - scrape any...

Screwfix Gold are fine but 3.5 x 25mm aren't really up to fixing ply to joists. Use something more meaty. If you are overboarding a subfloor then you'd be better advised to use a tiling board (Hardi / Marmox etc) and not plywood which will expand and contract beneath your tiles and crack the...

If you raise a wet room former above the surrounding floor level then you may get issues with water escaping from the shower area. It's usually better to fit them flush or even slightly lower with a lip to keep the water in. Strip the tiles off the walls and throw the ply away or over board...

Strip it back and do the subfloor prep properly.

Masking tape's ok if you use a silicone like Dow & Corning 785 but a Fugi tool http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cramer-FUGI5-5-Fugi-Kit/dp/B003BNLQQ0 is better and works on irregular surfaces and curves. Use Wonder Wipes to clean the tool.

Mainly Hardi is horrible to cut - make sure you don't breathe the dust. For floors you use a thin bed of tile adhesive (6mm notch) and screw down (the board's marked to help). Use a zinc screw. No need to use the Hardie screw - most use something like Screwfix Turbos. The adhesive is...

They specify non flexible for floors but most pros seem to use single part flexible (SPF). Doubt it makes any difference. Remember to mechanically fix as well with screws. For walls onto masonry I'd use Marmox not Hardie - it's easier to work with. Hardie say it can't be dot & dabbed but...

They may be covering themselves but I think the makers of cement boards claim that they don't help with deflection - hard to believe it doesn't help a bit though. I can't see this getting any better and I'd be tempted to bail now when it's just the matting that's been wasted. If you let...

You mean Evo-Stik 528 as in the contact adhesive? You'll save yourself an awful lot of grief if you ditch your tiler now rather than have a dispute with him later. It sounds like he's completely incompetent - 4mm ply, springy floorboards (this needs fixing before you lay cement boards or...

PVA or a tiling primer?

I'm not sure what you mean by a tiling batten across the top.

Could try giving the cills a slope so that any water clears and get a squeegee to get the bulk off after each shower - good idea to squeegee anyway.