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The shorter version is don't use PVA. If you need to prime use primer made for tiling.

An angle grinder with a diamond disc should do it.

The tiles are too big for ready mix so bagged cement based adhesive is the right choice. You don't use PVA for tiling, there are specialist priming and tanking liquids that you use. Can you take the aqua panels off and reverse them?

I've seen it happen on other tiling forums where someone comes on to defend his work. Can't see it happening with this chap though. :)

I'd say keep it assuming it's proper bagged cement based stuff. I think they've done you a favour by supplying the colours that 99% of people would go for. Brown grout would be a "brave" choice.

What looks okay depends on the look you're after - narrow grout lines and similar coloured grout to make the grout disappear vs wider lines with a contrast grout to make it stand out as a feature. I'd have thought cream tiles + limestone grout should look good.

Carpet trim! That's a new one. He'll need to take the tiles off around the reveal to get the trim in and make sure he redoes the cut around the window ledge so that the grout line gap lines up.

9mm or 12mm ply isn't going to add much stability to the floor. If it flexes then you'd need to fix that first. If you need to overboard then 6mm tile backer board will be better than ply but it won't stop floor bounce so fix that first. Don't worry if the floor finishes at a different...

They might have done you a favour there. I think Ivory (off white / cream) will look much better than brown. If you want to keep it clean you could seal it with something like lithofin stain stop and/or clean it periodically with Dettol mould and mildew remover - excellent stuff.

That's not good. If it was stone then an exposed polished edge looks good and you can mitre tiles to avoid a trim. But having tile edge exposed as it is in the picture isn't right. Functionally it won't make a difference but visually it looks very poor & I wouldn't pay anyone who did this.

I seeeee. So now all the sub forum think he's gone random bonkers. :mrgreen:

BAS seems to be posting the same reply an all the sub forums. Has he gone nuts?

You might find that the slab sucks all the heat out of the UFH without insulation but 6mm probably isn't worth it.

10/12mm sounds about right to me. You're not having insulation under the UFH?

It's quite easy to replace a tile especially if it's already cracked - just smash it with a hammer and chisel and drop a new one in. Only issue will be whether you have a spare.

Whatever caused the original filler to fail might happen again but the filler is made for the job & should work. Alternative is to replace any failed tiles but try filling them first. I wouldn't try to use anything to take up the volume - give the epoxy filler the best chance by giving it a...

You can probably fill it with http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/jolly-stone-glue-filler.html Comes in quite a lot of colours and may need a bit and trial and error to get the shade right. I wouldn't have thought it was necessary to refinish / polish the whole floor. If you need to polish...

tpt The problem that I've found with ply (and I believe it's not uncommon) is that it can crack the tiles where the sheets join. It might depend on the type of tiles but I think although the tiles adhere well, the ply will expand and contract slightly - resulting in a crack along the sheet...

Do you know why the floor failed and do you think the walls are okay? 18mm + ply might be being used to strengthen the floor but not a good idea to tile directly onto it. What you do depends on why the ply's there & if it's properly fixed and if the area's wet. Options you might...

Have the tilers that have quoted said why they think the floor has failed? My guess would be that there's more wrong with it than someone walking on it early and that the builders may have cut a few corners. I'd suggest you get tilers to fix it rather than a builder. Also, why at they...