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Do you mean OSB or Chipboard? Have you overboarded with this or is it onto joists?

I wouldn't use a plastic seal - it will leak. You'll be better off using a good quality silicone (Dow Corning / Otto Seal). Leave a 3mm between the tiles and tray so the silicone gets a good seal. You'll probably find a paint on tanking solution (Weber do a very good one) easier than a...

A cement based flexible (bagged not ready mix) tile adhesive will probably do the trick. Something like Weber SPF Rapid. Make sure the cement is flexible & okay for wood. If you use a cement board, stick the cement board to the ply with Weber SPF and screws and then use Weber SPF to stick...

Yes, I mean cut out the floorboards. If you need to raise the level then another layer of ply or cement tile backer board would do it.

Give Lithofin's technical help a call. http://www.lithofin.co.uk/en-gb/technical-advice

You'd probably be better replacing the floorboards with 18/22mm external ply.

I think the recommended British Standard is 3mm on the floor & 2mm on walls but common to go 2mm all over if that's the look required and there's a need to line up grout lines between floor & wall. Wider is down to aesthetics, as is contrast coloured grout.

There are quite a lot that are suitable - backer boards are designed to be tiled so you'll probable find most are good. Bagged cement based are usually better that ready mix but some ready mixed can be okay in some circumstances. Personally I'd use Weber.set plus...

I think what your describing will be a "floating floor" i.e. not fixed to the substrate. I believe that these can be tricky for tiling and you'd be best to check with the manufacturer what floor covering is compatible (stone may be a no no) and how they recommend fixing it (and whether they...

If you Google "lithofinbob" you'll see that one of the techs posts on another forum or phone 01962 732126. Lithofin make excellent sealers and their techs are very helpful.

Are you sure they're ceramic and not porcelain? You could give Lithofin a call - their tech help is very good and can probably recommend something.

I think you need to know what type the screed is, how thick it is and whether it's dry before you do anything.

Are you sure you don't want to get a tiler in to finish the work? If your just looking to repair the plaster then why not use Wickes one coat plaster?

You might want to ask the manufacturer to specify a fixing method and adhesive and if they will guarantee it.

The one I have looks very similar and the inner part with the lamp just comes out quite easily when the bezel is pulled. If the whole fitting comes out when you pull the bezel then I'd guess that there's a thread or lock tabs involved and that you need to twist the bezel before it will...

Having checked mine are DLM413 or DLM411 down lights. I can't see any reference to DLL933 on the Aurora website.

I have a couple of the same down lighters. You just pull the bezel down - the glass and lamp will come with it and the white casing will stay where it is.

Whether it's moisture resistant or normal plasterboard it will need to be tanked and will fall to bits if the tiling leaked and the tanking failed. If you damage the plasterboard while taking the tiles off you might be better replacing it with 12.5mm Marmox as this is waterproof and doesn't...

Thanks. Didn't see the "Chime" button :oops: Only link with the battery change is me pressing lots of buttons logging in as the engineer & clearing the logs etc - must have hit the chime button which I didn't even know was there. Anyway, many thanks.

I think the ply & the backer board are doing different things. Ply isn't as dimensionally stable as backer boards and so not so good to tile onto - you can get cracked tiles as the ply expands and contracts and takes the tiles with it.