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The thermostatic valve I found is described as a Crosswater part but when I search for the part number on the website, it finds the Hudson Reed part which is roughly half the price. Anyone here knows if there's a difference in quality between the two original and third party parts?

I can try

I haven't managed to find a 38mm box spanner. Screwfix or Toolstation don't seem to sell it. And I'd rather buy locally as I need to fix my shower asap! Arrrgggg

Once I removed the cement the collar unscrewed pretty easily with a long nose pliers. Unfortunately, there is not enough room to use a spanner so my options are to use a grinder to extend the opening or get a 38mm socket to unscrew the retaining but. But that is expensive to buy for a single use

Rubber strap is a good idea, I'll see if I can find someone like that. What penetrating oil can I use? Is WD-40 a no no?

Now that you pointed this out it's obvious. But as you can see from the pic above, the dumbass who installed the shower valve set it too deep so the thermo collar is hard to access as it's not proud of the tiles. It's also set in cement. So after carefully chiseling the cement, how do I grab...

My thermostatic cartridge in my Crosswater shower valve (handles, two outlets) need changing. It has been playing silly buggers for a couple of weeks when I couldn't get the water to go hotter although in other taps the hit water is very hot. Today it developed a leak and I found the part number...

I would like to remove the plaster on the second wall and board the entire wall. Square edge for this job also?

Should I use tapered edge or square edge boards?

Good idea but in this case it would look weird, unless I redo the architraves also

I have another studwall like that that will be harder to patch. If i remove the plaster and board it, what thickness plasterboard would you recommend?

My incompetent builder tried to prop this wall whilst putting a steel beam underneath it. That didn't achieve much, other than smash the lath and plaster at the bottom section of the wall. I tidied up the mess and would like to patch the gap. The question is how to do it. My initial idea is to...

What blades would you recommend, the more equal ones of course

I have one and I tried to use it on the steel beam. It barely scratched it

You are correct. I didn't use the right term.

The holes are overlapping and the files have handles. The file set I ordered, see link above to the actual product, include a triangular, flat and half round files, the latter is a ******* cut. I think I'll be okay getting this done

I'm crating a channel where I can run cables along the beam cavity to tidy up cables, see my original post.

I drilled three holes side by side and the plan is to file it into a rectangle hole. Your right for one hole it would be too big

I got a set of files but unsure if I got the right ones. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-47708-File-Set-Pieces/dp/B000X2B16M A re these files or rasps? description is unclear...

I thoughts files and rasps were synonymous. Doh. Any of these files or these files good?