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strange one.. I would reckon the micro switch is saying there is a constant demand for hot water therefor not allowing the central heating to be heated.. or the micro switch is fine and its the diverter valve spindle is stuck and holding down the micro switch. These are just guesses mate I...

I'm gonna say... partially blocked injector. please dont try yourself! :P better safe than... not lol

try bleed the pump and manually turn it to ensure its moving ok, also check pump speed if possible. It could also be thermistors taking a false reading and cutting heating off before it has had a chance to circulate.. :P

I had a similar problem with a biasi last week. woman was getting dhw but ch for only about 10 seconds. It was the termistors that were knackerd. also Ideal make biasi so when buying the termistors get the ideal ones they are the same part number but cost £10 less .

I would go to the 28mm mate doesnt make sense to have 28mm pipe both sides of a 22mm stop cock.. :?

ok.. wee dunt with a hammer... :lol: I'm preparing to be told off lol but i have seen this done and work.. but i would recomend the other post about taking the cover screw off and turning manually..

http://mrcombi.com/shop.html I havent got this dvd but have heard nothing but good things.. there are plenty of books about though :idea:

..leak inside the boiler damaged the PCB? have you checked the fuses inside the PCB? if it is a blown fuse in the PCB you should investigate why it has blown and not just replace and hope for the best lol PCB PCB PCB PCB.... :lol:

check pump is turning (getting to heat circulated) if not it is reading too hot and cutting out. I changed the thermistors on a biasi this week so I would check them if the pump is turning. how soon is it cutting out when you select heating?.. maybe once its cooled down? :wink:

does it "blow off" ? couldnt the rise be a faulty expansion vessel..?

biasi combi boiler working normal for HW but only fires up for a few seconds on CH..(enough to heat the flow but no long enough to return) Pump is still turning, the pin on the diverter valve is moving ok when hot tap is opened Looking through the manuals fault finding section it points out...

ok now its been a while since i was in college! and a long time since i actually done any drainage, I just wanted to ask if a gully is needed at the bottom of every rainwater down pipe? I cant remember.. because I try stick to heating lol one of those plumbers that dont like getting dirty :wink...

yeah namsag i did post the same problem :roll: i wish 45 had answered it! thanks for all your help I will get on to this asap and i will post what it was that fixed it, cheers :D a cheeky wee thanks heading your way..

cheers for the quick reply 45. I have blown through the injectors (..yes i know lol) Is it possible that the injectors are letting gas through just not the right mixture, how can i check?

only the two outside flames come on full and the middle radiants are at low flame even when set high, any suggestions? (burner has been changed already by another plumber and problem the same.)[/i]

plate heat exchanger sounds like a good shout :wink: thats what i would check, its also possible the thermostat has failed.

have you noticed if there has been any work getting done in the area? this happend to me, they were working on the water mains and then one day i got a bit of grit out the tap then the flow was terrible. They came out and dug up the street and fitted a new toby for my house and still the...

Most bath taps come with a 22mm connection but you can just use a reducer :). is it an electric shower? It would be fine off 15mm

ok so i havent been to see this shower but i have been told that the water is scorching hot and the pressure is as normal. anyone have any suggestions? could be element on its way out you think? Now i know the best brains in the world are on this forum so lets solve this eh? lol :lol:

Pump over-run possible faults - water temperature thermostat/sensor or faulty micro switch. I hope this is of some use pal