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My concern would be the treated wood for the framing being joined together when wet, then it drying out and warping/shrinking after you've clad it. I've the opposite problem - I build a nice modular Summer house during this summer, and sealed and painted it while everything was dry. But over the...

IF they're 8 X 4 sheets of ply, you'll never get them lifted in one piece- they'll snap and splinter. It's hard to tell from your photo, but on zooming in on the bottom of it, I think your substrate is tile backer board ( maybe the thin insulated ones) and not wood. Regardless of what it is...

What Deluks said

I use a Marshalltown 4”scraper, sometimes a wide chisel bit in the sds drill. Either way, it’s a long hard graft !

I’m sure if you get in touch with V.P. you could just get a replacement front panel.

Yip, these are tile backer boards, and as 23vc says, will be stuck down with tile adhesive and screwed. They don't come tongue and grooved - will be straight edged. The substrate under that is ' likely' to be: for older houses tongue and grooved floorboards which will be at 90 deg to the...

I am also a ‘Bal’ grout man, and regularly use the same Screwfix N.N. Silicone. No, you cannot re-grout and silicone on the same day; the grout has to be dry and the tiles polished+haze free before you can Silicone. Around my way, some tilers, including myself, will not regrout Ceramic tiles...

+1

It looks like chipboard to me ?

Good on you for going for the RapidSet ! Your wall seems to missing something - like some plasterboard :)

If you search, there are plenty of other posts on here explaining why you can’t use an air/evaporation drying adhesive that thick on the floor. ( basically, it will never dry) If I’m reading correctly, and you’re really putting a bed of more than 10mm on a wall, then there’s something wrong...

You can’t use ready made adhesive, especially so to ‘floor tile bed thickness’. You need to buy a bag of proper Flexible Tile Adhesive, which comes in a powder cement form. As you’re only doing one tile, which I presume can be walked around for 24 hours, you don’t need to buy a Rapid set one -...

That actually looks like a pretty good floor to me ! Give it another good brush, put a screw in anything that’s loose or squeaks, then a quick coat of 3:1 water:SBR. Put down your 6mm Hardie, on top of a bed of Adhesive that’s been trowelled on with a 6mm notch. ‘Screw as you go’ with 25mm...

A good point Harry; I'd just assumed that's what the square hole cut in the front was for.

I'm asking myself 'Why do you need access to your has meter' ? You can't do anything to it, and you can't move that display panel.

You also don't mention size of, and how many walls. Personally I'm not a fan of square tiles, especially if you're going for 100% on all walls; I'd be going with 30 x 60 tiles. Also note that with a 90x90 tile it will be harder to plan the lay-out, and with Windows and doors to cut around...

IMO option 2 is the only one : 1. is out, as the ‘ lower the better’ is what everyone wants, and 3. Is just a recipe for growing mould and smelling damp all the time. It’s good you’ve got ‘ no going back if its wrong ‘ mentality - it keeps the mind focussed and means you’ll do it right !

Another difference “ up here” in Scotland is that the seller has to put together a Home report, with survey, efficiency ratings and valuation figure when he puts it on the market. The buyer can now read the survey before he even views the property.

+1 for not grouting the ‘tall’ internal corner in the shower. You’ll get a much better seal just siliconing down it. I also run a silicone bead along the two ‘wall sides’ of the tray before I push it onto the walls.

No rain here in Ayrshire for the next few days; I’m sure you’re aware though to keep an eye on the temperature, you don’t want it below about 5 degrees for a few days before and during laying …..