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Very interested to see an update from @OxfordBlue26 ( O.P. In January)

It might be your mobile payment plan. If you have a ' fixed payment amount ' contract ( e.g. £5.00 per month Lebara etc) it will have unlimited minutes, but it won't let you phone or text premium numbers, and some 0800 numbets.

I'd give it a go with your adhesive, but as Alastair says, tape it first. I've done similar to this with rapidset tile adhesive a couple of times. ;) You're wallpapering it, then sticking a radiator over the top of that : it'll be fine !

Here's a controversial idea :- Why not go for 4 tiles on the bottom until it reaches the cupboards ? That way your 3rd row will be an 'L' each side, and the trim will be clearly defined as it'll be 150 mm in/overlap from each cupboard ? It makes it a better looking shape as well imo

Yip, good idea to pilot hole it first. As it’s a very heavy 1800x 600 column rad I would also consider asking for the ( optional) floor supporting brackets ( feet ) instead of the bottom wall mounted ones.

I think we can guess (hope?) the name of the driver of this ?

lol

The Manrose mentioned above is good for the job, but it’s there to move the damp air out, and replace this void with dry air, keeping your walls etc free from moisture. To do this it needs a good supply of fresh air, hence the gap under the door; it is pretty important.

Hi Leftum, To a certain extent your answer depends on two main things :- how long/many jobs do you intend using it for, and what size (length)of tiles you are cutting. Most pro tilers argue between ‘Sigma’ or ‘Ruby’ ( I’m a ‘Sigma’ man myself) but these are designed for a long hard life and are...

Have a look at the OP’s other thread and photo of what his Corefix has achieved so far …….

That’s two of us saying that :)

I’m very surprised Freddie and Kool would screw these into plasterboard and hang a radiator on them !

Are these what you're screwing into dotdab plasterboard as per your other thread ? Surely t f not !

I would cut the ' whole hole ' :) out, to get back to whatever the dot dab is onto. Then elongate it into a slot that's long enough and high enough for your brackets. Then get the thickest piece of wood you can get away with and fix that with the proper fixings into the wall, then fix the...

Hear hear !! It’s even worse when you watch a homeless ex-vet whose served for his country being interviewed on the telly and he says “ if I was foreigner I would be warm and fed “. :(

A wee tip - you might want to stick the plastic sleeves that fit onto the bracket( and between the rad) on with something. I can guarantee you’ll knock them off when hanging :)

I agree with both of @Madrab comments above. Any height you like, but only for looks. Reason I know ? A few years ago I put one ( the same size as yours) into my new kitchen/diner. It looked the dogs bits, but after the first winter i e'bayed it to some other poor sod. The...

If your siliconing skills are up to it, get a length of 50mm wide flat pvc and make a neat box over the top to ' Box them in '. Deffo only a temp measure though !

Is it very smooth ? Or does it have a rough texture ? It looks like Hardy Cement board to me

My neighbour had a perfectly functioning flue, until last year when he fitted a spinning cowl. He could tell it wasn’t clearing as well as before with the old one, so after a week he changed it. He’s much happier with it now.