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It is defo the plug that becomes warm- not the socket. And yes, I have no idea what is in the plug but clearly there is something that is generating the heat. It does in fact seem quite stiff so the euro plug seems a possibility. Lots to investigate! thanks for all the advice

I guess I might have picked this up wrong - a missing "K" made it seem like sarcasm? - and if so,apologies. :oops:

Thanks guys. Useful info. I will explore the MK option

Thank you I am very happy with an answer of £1k / square metre. Obviously, I realise that this is only a "ball park figure" and obviously "it depends". But equally, it didn't strike me as stupid to ask for a ballpark figure as a starting point and if it makes people happy to indulge in...

Thanks for the reply. Disappointing though, it seemed such an obviously good use for it- especially as I don't even own an electric shaver! :)

I want to extend my semi by building a single storey flat roof extension to the rear. The width of the property is about 6 metres and I think I would be allowed 3 metres depth. So 18 square metres is my starting guess. Is it possible to estimate a "per metre" cost as a rough indicator of the...

When I plug my toothbrush charger into the shaver socket in my bathroom, the plug becomes quite warm. The socket is a standard unit with 110 and 240 outlets. The toothbrush plug does not heat up when plugged into a two pin adaptor in a 3 pin socket in my kitchen. Is using a shaver socket for...

The stopcock on the cold water supply to my flat is leaking slightly at the spindle. I am guessing that the copper pipe is old enough to be imperial If I buy a new 22mm stopcock. will the existing cap nuts screw on to the new body or will I have to cut them off and piece in new pipe work?

Below my (Victorian era) house is a clay soil pipe connection , long disused. I have bought an adaptor which looks as though it should fit right inside the pipe with the surrounding disk hard against the shoulder of the socket and making a seal. I'm reluctant to use force and the adaptor won't...

Thanks Sealed system non-combi Thought it was good practice to flush after any pipe work or adding new bits. Flushing seems next to Godliness on these forums!

I've replaced the bathroom radiator ( with a large towel rail). I was planning to get the system flushed and inhibitor topped up at the annual service. Wondered if the flushing might be more urgent than that? Would it be ok to leave it for a couple of months?

The taps are monobloc with flexibles and yes the hot flow is pretty weak anyway. I contacted the suppliers help line and they "recommend" no greater differential than 0.5 bar. If 3m head = about 0.3 bar then I can't even source a reduction valve that would achieve that. ( 1.5 bar min output...

So how I balance the supplies? The cold mains is always going to be greater than the hot header. Wouldn't fill it otherwise. So this must be the common situation for all mixer taps?

Fitting new taps to a bathroom basin, it occurred to me that the hot supply pressure is from a static head of about 3 metres or so, while the cold is mains pressure which is clearly way more than that. Is there not a danger that the cold pressure could, in some circumstances, force the hot...

Plenty of good info here. Many thanks to you all

The gap between the waste and the floor is only 100mm. I bought a P trap before I realised this and it is nowhere near fitting. If there was room for a P trap I wouldn't have a problem! :-)

Thanks for the suggestions I will prob try the adaptor trick. Cutting the waste would be touch and go. need to find at least 30 mm for even the shallow bottle trap and not sure I have that to play with. Just surprised at the problem. Bought the bidet out of a shop- its not an import from...

I am fitting a bidet with a 32mm waste. There is only 100mm of space between the waste and the floor so even a shallow bottle trap doesn't fit. I thought it would be a simple matter to use the same style of trap as baths but cannot find a 32mm shallow trap in my local outlets. What am I...