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No you can run metal earthed conduit at any depth but it is a b***h to work with.

Lorraine Maybe you should post this question as a new thread topic as you have a better chance of a decent reply that way. It can also come across as hijacking the current thread. It is called a service head by the way.

Have you tried to measure for voltage at the lampholder wires. If it is a ES holder sometimes over time the contacts can become pushed out of alignment and don't make a connection with the bulb even if volts are reaching them. Just a thought!

Where is the isolator? Before the meter or after in the CU? How fast was it turning? Can you quantify 'very slowly'

Here's a bit of 'electricians advice'. Get him back to sort out that mess, or if like me after seeing that you wouldn't trust him to wire a plug for you, report his work to the niceic and get it looked at by someone competent.

It is quite normal for separate hobs to have two live connections as they are high power/current and can be wired to multiple phases/supplies. They need to be linked together and fed from the live conductor. A metal link may have been provided if you search and if not link the lives with a piece...

How did you wire the switch? Supply cable L&N to Supply and shower cable L&N to Load??

I think you will find the title of the topic is 'Steel Capping'. I was referring to the benefit of plastic capping over steel capping in general, where it's use is appropriate.

Use plastic capping. No earthing required on it and it is easier to cut!!

Not necessarily but it would be better to extend the ring.

P153 of the OSG also goes on to say: A non-fused spur feeds only one single or one twin or multiple socket-outlet or one permanently connected equipment. Such a spur is connected to a circuit at the terminals of a socket-outlet or junction box or at the origin of the circuit at the...

I usually use cable! :lol:

Small vent fans probably don't cause much of a spike on their own and this would not damage the TX for the lights. I guess the instructions are concerned that multiple TX's and a fan may cause high enough inrush to trip MCB but still not likely.

Always stick to type B for domestic. Type C have larger surge current rating and are used more in industrial installs with more inductive loads eg. motors and many fluorescents MORE INFO Type / Curve : B / 2 Short Circuit response : 3-5 times current rating Applications : Circuits with...

Your metering company needs shooting, as in doing this work re-terminating your supply, they should have checked the earthing in what looks like a typical TN-S supply. I would definitely complain to them while making arrangements to get the DNO to sort it quicker than ASAP!

If it is a light switch it is no good as a supply for what you want as there is no neutral (or should not be!) there. You may have to find the nearest socket on your ring final and wire a fused spur off that. If your supply to the circuit has no RCD then you will have to use a RCD fused spur.

Surely the point is you only need to introduce one minor fault to create a dangerous installation, which on a job like changing a CU is more likely to effect the installation as a whole. I personally would never assume a job was up to standard unless I checked it out with proper test...

Thanks for that rudeness BAS! :cry: Don't know about anyone else on here but I can think of hundreds of ways of introducing a fault when changing a CU if done badly!! Possibly... Surely you do mean the tops of the MCB's dazzler??

CE marking would be a start. IP rating might be good for a bathroom. BS marking may be a requirement for open market sale.

Assume that they are looking for two jobs that between them will give the examiner enough confidence that your work is up to the required BS7671 standard and your testing skills and test equipment are up to scratch. If the jobs are not involved enough for this then they may specify more...