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Sounds about right for a frame-less system. You could probably get a thin aluminum frame system like Smarts heritage for around £3-4k

Hard to say without looking in person. My first step would be to take the glass out to check for anything blocking the drainage holes and make sure the ones on that side are clear/flowing freely. Did your window guy take the glass out? Also might be worth putting a level on the frame to make...

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Ultron are probably the best on the market at the moment. £1000 guarantee against being defeated

PM me your email address. I have some instructions for another make that maybe similar

I expect the top stops just pop off to revel the spring ratchet. Im not familiar with the rehau ones but they are mostly similar. You could always email Rahau and they might be able to send you instructions...

Could be anything but I would start with lubricating it. Silicone or graphite spray get it right in on all the moving parts

Shoot-bolts are available on any make of window with no problems. Sounds like that window company are trying to sell cheap parts/cut costs. That would make me weary of them as a company possibly. There are some new designs of locking system around that don't need shoot-bolts though like these...

Pretty much all makes are fine. Those are both big brands so both fine. Its all in the fabrication and the fitting, A crap window fitted well is better than a great window fitted crap, For window boards avoid PVC they will scratch up in no time so avoid.

There are hundreds of different hinges around. A few photos would help

Yep they are an absolute T*at to get out when they are not in a timber subframe. Angle grinder with lots of metal blades and or reicip saw with lots of metal blades required Have fun!

If you have multi-point locking its already fairly secure and no point adding extra locks. The 2 weak points are: 1. glass/panels. Consider upgrading to laminated glass and or steel reinforced panels. 2. the euro cylinder lock (most likely a cheap £3 Chinese one that can be broken into in 10...

Its just so the timber is not in permanent contact with damp bricks/walls as it wouldn't last very long that way. Tightly screwed to the window is fine. Preferably some nice straight wood.

Yes that is a crazy idea and no I wouldn't try it lol You can pick up a diy can of expanding foam from a hardware store for about £5-10. The diy ones are uncontrollable though. So have a test fire first into a rubbish bucket. And make sure you masking tape edges and cover everything

I wouldn't touch Rockdoor with a barge pole! No offense there stealthwolf but you should see the complaints I read about them from suppliers and fitters on the forums I use. There are a whole load of people on about them last night again. Bowing slabs, Peeling paint, Terrible customer service...

3x2 tantalized is fine. Not tight to the wall though or at least separated by a bit of DPC if you want it to last

Any decent company should be able to make it all in one. I would be wary of company's that cannot personally

Concrete fixings at least 50mm into the wall. fixing 150mm from the corners then 600mm spacing's

You can get packers for the stack heights. So rather than take the sash out to check the stack height just buy 13mm with packers.

Haha sorry mate. I'm just really not a fan of timber. Have fitted hundreds of timber windows and doors and they cause nothing but callbacks. Have fitted loads of makes, Loads of types of woods form big companys down to small local joiners and I now do anything I can to talk customers out of...