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dave....should have checked all rooms !! i would just go and see whats required...ie cap it ?..wont take u 15 mins..job done

what length do you need 110 mm ?

if its not leaking ...its not leaking....bending a pipe is normally ok...kinks might weaken the pipework

sorry cant tell if the is an open end or not.....u look !! also, look at the meter...if the gas pipe just goes outside in copper to a boiler/cooker and u cant see it going through the wall anywhere else then may be ok (ie dead)

i dont do any mains insallation work, but from recalling studies, it will normally need to be buried between 750-1300mm till it enters the property (stop it freezing) should be sleved as it comes up the ground ino the property to stop it freezing. if you just place it in soil pipe it in the...

http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/homeowner/products/gas-boilers/greenstar-highflow-440cdi

dunno what to say..... is it leaking lots ? is it damaging other parts of the boiler ? if its just from the connection to the boiler then its not too bad but if you have to top up your boiler with regularity then its not good...

the important distance is from the CWS (bottom) and the outlet (tap)...think of the hot water cylinder as a big fat piece of pipe.

unused as in not connected to the gas "live" pipework anymore ? if its not connected to gas anymore then its just a lump of lead. if its connected still then i would feel inclined to have it capped as short as poss...it might be it can be cut off/capped near the meter....but obviuosly its...

could you have left the topping up tap slightly open ?...drain it down as desc till it sits around 1.2 when cold...then see if problem persists

A service is a service A fault find is a differnt thing. A bit like cars.

your system should not need much balancing as its quite small...however - check the cold ? rads will warm up by closing the other rads down and opening these fully. If they do then its a matter of closing down (nearly) the rads nearest to the boiler and progresively opening the rads more...

http://www.radiatorfactory.net/ or 3 in a row, just connect them at the bottom. treat em like 1 rad....1 trv

as usual..over the top. plaster board fixing will do just fine...trust me ..i'm a doctor !! happy xmas

1 turn the rad valves off..undo nuts and drain water into tray. take rad off etc etc 2 .shoulder ?...large nut near pump ?....some times you can undo it a bit and then retighten it

poss..get poss debris checked first ? did you have 2 taps before hand.....either way monoblocks will always provide less flow that single taps. try and find a monoblock tap for low pressure ??

well anne, sorry to disappoint, but yuor fitter is not to far wrong. as long as the tap has not got any debris in it..ptfe or similar then it will be down to the tap you need a low pressure tap....most forreign taps are made for high pressure (the inners, where the water goes through are a lot...

if it has no holes to screw through then silicone..a couple of blobs near edges, so they could be cut with a long knife if required to be removed

yes...replced a about 15m of 15mm for 22mm and thought i'd remove the iso also. it was just info that 15mm pipe with an iso on it still nearly fed 8-10kw worth of rads !!

the other week i went to a large 4 bedroom house to sort out a rad that would not work. customer rightly suspected the lack of 22mm pipework as the main artery. i agreed and some days later i went back to do the work...lifting floorboards. the boiler flow and return were in 15mm from about 2...