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it sounds like you have a loose wiring connection in your reciever unit, specifically between the Common (C) and the Normally open (NO) (this is the box mounted near your boiler with the red and green LED lights on). Isolate the electrical supply to this box and check the wiring.

Why don't you get a Registered Gas Installer (or three) to come round to your property to carry out a survey and then provide you with a quote? He or she will be better placed to advise you to where a replacement boiler can or can't go and come up with suitable solutions for the flue...

Why don't you leave it to your installer to remove when he comes around to fit the new part?

Hi Kirk, could you send me a copy of the FF powerpoint please? [email protected] Thanks very much, and Happy Hogmanay too. Mikey.

Or volume of room in metres (width x length x height) = ?m3 ?m3 divide by 19 = ?kw at a room temp of 21c (living areas) ?m3 divide by 24 = ?kw at a room temp of 18c (bedrooms etc) Kirkys formula (multiply by 5) in the post above gives the room temp as 21c, if you require the temp to...

You have two choices. 1. Buy a mechanical or digital time clock for your boiler. This will fit onto the boiler and you can set you on/off periods at the boiler. 2. Upgrade to a R500rf programmable roomstat (no need for a timer on the boiler) and set your on/off periods on the actual...

Lowering or raising the set point temperature by pressing the buttons up or down will switch the stat on or off.

Lowering or raising the set point temperature by pressing the buttons up or down will switch the stat on or off.

Ped, I had similar problem as you. Turns out the condensate sump was knackered even after stripping it out and giving it a good clean, it would run well for a few hours but the condensate began backing up and leaking from the bottom of the "y" piece.(yes the condensate pipe was falling away...

Check that there are no loose wires at terminal 1 and 2 in the boiler.

If it's a Kane then take it direct to them in Manchester, relatively cheap and same day turnaround.

It's possible to fit an external heating control. The best practice is to fit a programmable room thermostat. If the area where the stat has a radiator then the thermostatic radiator valve needs to be removed. As this is a retro-fit it might be easier and quicker to install a wireless one...

The OP isn't having much look with boilers "installed" in his property, they always seem to be breaking down!. Looking over his previous posts he has had a HE24, a Keston and a Main 30 all since November. He's full of it :D

Did BG "balance" your system after they powerflushed?

Have you had this problem since the boiler was installed? Did you have a conventional heating system before this, i.e tanks in the loft and a hot water cylinder?

Try "switching off" the upstairs rad's by closing the valves at either end of the rad's and fully opening the valves of the downstairs rad's at both ends. This might force hot water through the downstairs one's. If this cure's the problem then open the upstiars rad valves a 1/4 or 1/2 turn, see...

Thanks for all the input guy's :D

Yeah there brass body, fittings are a couple of quid a pop :( Do you think they are superior to plastic pfit fittings?

Evening Gents, am tidying up some Flow and Return pipes for a customer and access for soldering is a no-go. Any info on using the above fittings? In the past if I've had to use pushfit it's been Hep2o all the way, but i'm keen to try out new materials. Cheers :)

Thanks for your swift reply! :D