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I'm genuinely grateful for all the assistance I'm getting from thsi forum in recent weeks, but I'm not sure if that was written with a degree of sarcasm or not :? Are you seriously suggesting its feasible that I should :) , or hinting I should stop whining about the potential cost of paying...

Well I've confirmed with Grant that the boiler is compatible with the white system flue kits they do. (note for anyone interested - Some minor technical adjustment would be required if I was exiting horizontally, but I intend it to exit vertically) There is a convenient double air brick that...

THank fro the input guys. The serial number puts it as a 2002 model. I'll speak to grant re the flue compatibility. Moving the boiler 100mm will not magically deter any gases coming in the door. So on that basis alone I would leave it exactly where it is and ignore the regs. But I don't...

Yeah, that's pretty much it so I'm about right with the dpc. I'm still concerned about the support of the concrete though it won't have antyping to key to except the dpc. Perhaps some fixings left half way out for the concrete to set around?

That was my thinking, and I can't get my head why it would cost so much to remove it

£800 for skirting, £600 for 3x doors :shock: :? £63k spending on a rental? Buy another house for that!

Looking at removing 5ft ( of a 7ft) wall between two rooms. I've had three people look at it none think its supporting, but all have quoted 'based on it being none load bearing' but should it be found to be load bearing additional cost will be incurred. So at what stage does one decide if it is...

Hi, we have a Grant Euroflame 50/70 installed in our house. I'm not sure how old it is, but must be atleast 5 years as it was here when we moved in. It is currently installed sideways against a wall with the flue venting through the side panel hrizontally out through the cavity wall. Due...

I'm hoping this is a straigth forward question. I've installed a UPVC/composite door in place of a window. The door sill sits on top of the DPC on the outer wall giving a minimal step internally, and sensible step up from external (2x brick courses to dpc + depth of sill) Internally I have...

as per OP, oil feed etc are easily routed (it would effectively be moving sideways by about 6ft. Well Mr B.C won't be hearing of the building. I don't really see that it would be a requirement anyway. But either way I guess I need to re-assess the boiler situation. Having done more...

Condensor dryers are not as energy efficient, and will still add some moisture back into the air - I have a brand new one, is a well insulated, small utility room with an a-rated window - the windows are completely steamed up within 15minutes. I will be changing for a vented tumbler ASAP...

No great surprise there! Can anyone give any more detail? Also confirm the regs on distance to opening. I've been told 600mm, but is that horizontal/vertical, diagonal or what? Edge to edge measurement I assume? Is there a rule about distance from an external corner too?

20mm thick slate would take some snapping, but I'm not sure what the situation is re wooden floor boards, so best to take advise from a pro. Ours was concrete floor. A quick google of hearth regs brought this up http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove-hearth-size.html sounds like a decent...

Cant help on the pointin all our brickwork covered with fireboard. We had laminate right upto the bricked up chimney breast. They used a circular saw type tool to cut out for the hearth, but made the cutout 15mm too small on all side the laid the slate as if it we sat on top of the flooring...

We've just this month had a stove installed professionally. Hearth is slate tiles, or slabs. 600mm sq, by about 20mm thick. Unfortunately I wasn't around to see what they were fixed with but I assume std mortor/concrete as they really don't get hot. the fire board side panels and roof of the...

But is one preferred these days? as with a warm deck roof? Is one particularly more efficient than the other? CLS it is then... I already have a stack! Where exactly would each mebrane go? breathable under battons? vapour behind plasterboard? or if putting the insulation external to the...

I was sat in my office 8hours a day, if I hadn't insulated the floor my toes would have had frost bite, even with heating on. Depends what your using it for, but definitely worth considering. Perhaps if the eixisting door were to open outwards? Or have a cutout in the floor for the door to open...

I did exactly the same thing for a small office 6ft x 8ft. I had little regards for any building rules or regs, so this is purely what I did and how I did it, whether its "proper" or not isn't for me to say. Make your own judgement. Sheet of damp proof plastic on concrete floor and I took...

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Hi folks, I'm looking to build a timber frame utility room (details here http://www.diynot.com/forums/building/timber-frame-wall-structure-for-lean-to-utility-conservatory.344935/#2580152 I really need to relocate the floor standing grant oil boiler into here. Is there anything that might...