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Check stud spacing, will be (hopefully for your sake) 400mm centres. If thats the case you're on to a winner and you can get a bracket which will span at least 3 studs if you get it right, minimum two. You can then get some heavy duty wall anchors which will fix straight into the stud. Dont...

Check stud spacing, will be (hopefully for your sake) 400mm centres. If thats the case you're on to a winner and you can get a bracket which will span at least 3 studs if you get it right, minimum two. You can then get some heavy duty wall anchors which will fix straight into the stud. Dont...

Yeah thats the one. Lift the float up to it highest and see if it stops the water coming out the fill valve. It may jut need adjusting, there should be a threaded plastic type lug you can adjust to when you want to stop the water. Check the water level and adjust the screw to stop at that point...

emptying out the internal overflow possibly. Check fill valve washer. Or replace. Unscrew that white nut on top of the fill valve and take the contents to a plumbers merchant for a suitable washer.

Check the threads are not defected of split/cracked. If not give it another go with Loctite 55 thread seal. Wonderful stuff. Or since its heating some Boss white and hemp round the thread. Will never leak with that.

Yes your right, whether its a shower or bath, they go in first. Also good idea to chase the edge in slightly to the wall. Every shower I do I always tank the walls with Bal WP1. Best bet is remove the bottom row of tiles, chisel away at the wall so the edge is buried in the wall slightly...

Alot of people add some more solder to a yorkshire fitting just to cap it off, I'm a tight get and never buy yorkshiree fittings though! :P

As stated its tiny, if you dont mind the white avoid the chrome and get a white one. Will give you a few more BTUs... not many though!

If its plastic type stuff it could be trim? Make sure you thoroughly clean any old residue off before applying new.

The old GSR 3.6V got slated in the reviews. This looks redesigned and looks the part.

These are comparable to air wrenches in fact some electric and battery operated ones have more torque. This has more than enough torque for most will even crack off hub nuts!

PTFE on the thread will probably cause leaks than fix them! the threaded pats is what mates the cone and the nut. PTFE on the olive is perfectly acceptable. Belt and braces.

I have cut plenty of 4" holes with my Makita 2450 SDS. Anything over 2" with a TCT you will find you will sheer the sds bit as the TCT bit on the cutter will snag on the brick work.

similar to the rolson group, if you use it day in day out then you wouldnt buy it. Athough Rolson now have a 'pro' tools! :lol:

The large holes will be to use with a basin fixing kit: http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-basin-fixing-kit/71804 I know B&Q don't supply these so always keep some handy.

I do swear by mine however using them in a house you are doing work in will get complaints from the neighbours! Thats why I stick to the cordless drill for most things. My Makita has 80Nm of torque to play with so most screws is man enough for. Also the impact river is less versatile as you can...

the OP may be getting the terms wrong from the cistern and Bowl? Do you mean the toilet bowl needs filling? In which case you got a clear case of venting issue. If the mains supply pipe is sucking water that's a whole world of pain!

I tend to always use copper olives, although brass olives have their uses. No need for any paste on a joint. I've never needed to. For piece of mind some PTFE on the olive only goes a long way.

Blame the Chinese and their hoard of semi precious metals! grrrrr shake fist! Bring on the Japanese they have found some way of getting the copper from below the sea bed off their coast. In which case there will be more competition and mean lower rice for us poor souls! :D

Sleeve and lag it with the usual double check valve and drain off. Foam will add an extra bit of insulation, capped off with some mortar :D