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You're almost answering your own questions here. From what you've said it seems logical the water is making its way up through the floor. I'm afraid it's a case of pulling up the tiling and fit some sort of DPC. Your surveyors remarks are also rather damning and i'm afriad that fact...

Was the floor wet before the tiles were fitted? Is this a recent occurance or been happening a while? Are you sure there isn't a leak and the water is creeping from under an appliance somewhere? To your knowledge is there any form of damp proof course under the tiles or the existing slab?

Spend time to carefully cut the grout out from around the tile completely. Fortunately granite is normally quite thin as it's dense. So once the grout is clear, hit it in the middle of the tile with a hammer unitl it breaks, gradually break it out from the middle out.

highly unlikely on both counts unfortunately. Technology doesn't yet exist to reproduce factory polishing on site, we can get close, but it won't be any better than the dull finish you have now. Pulling the tile up is possible if you are very very careful, but I wouldn't advise it.

Pull it all up, including the parquet, and tile on the screed. No height difference, nice solid floor.

Aquapanel only comes 12mm in thickness. There is a product called Aquapenl thermal, don't use this, its an insulator not reinforcement.

If it's too soft for a hammer and chisel then it probably the wrong stuff. It should be pretty solid, but if it isn't a wallpaper scraper?

I bottle goes a long way that should be plenty. I don't know a great deal about Topps Tiles as I just don't use them, but there may be other who do.

BAL APD has instructions on the bottle as to what dilutions are required, From memory plaster and plasterboard is 1-1 with water. If you are in or around london you could try Nicobond for adhesives instead http://www.nichollsandclarke.com/ They produce a powdered adhesive that can be...

A very sharp stanley knife blade used carefully to remove the bulk. There are then silicone eaters or chemical removers to remove the residue, remember to clean this with meths once done.

Dunlop is effectively BAL, as I understand they are basically one in the same company now, so I'm sure there's an element of rebranding going on there. I'm not an authority on ready mix, I just don't use it, not because I dislike it, but I generally work with marble and stone which...

I would generally point people in the direction of their closest Brewers and away from B&Q and such.

Tell me what tile you are fixing, LxHxW and what are they, stone, porcelain, travertine. Your weight limits are as follows:- Plaster 20kg sq/m Plasterboard 32kg sq/m Aquapanel 50kg sq/m (all of these amounts are well in comfort zones - off the record you can go 20% over and still be...

FIrstly, the heating shouldn't be turned on for 28 days, it take the grout that long to completely cure. What grout did he use? All the materials need to have flexible admix in to cope with the expansion and contraction of the heating system.

Carefully remove the first layer of tiles, refit the bath and retile that one row. Chalk it up to experience and remember not to do it next time, So it might take a half a day or so to do this, but considering your expecting say 10 years use out of the room and will need to look at it on a...

Two options, refit the bath to the correct height or cut the bath panel.

Well actually Ardex were and are very happy to elaborate, give them a call they'll give you all the technical reasons why you shouldn't use it. Which I've covered in my post "Why you shouldn't use PVA as a tiling primer". Ardex Technical 01440 714939. BAL just didn't want to be drawn into...

I'm not completely clear on what your asking here, but generally when I finish at a doorway I usually stop the tiling at the back edge of the door itself in line with the door frame lining. I then get a threshold made to size in solid Oak or Mahogany to the same thickness as the door. A fall...

They are thermoplastic tiles, commonly known as Marley. It's better to remove them if you can. In most cases once you start these come up quite easily with a paint scraper.

Actually I got the feeling, particularly from the tone of his first reply, that He felt He was far to important to be discussing anything with someone as ignorant as me. After All I've only been tiling professionally for 15 years, so what would I know.....