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Thanks rc, that's how I was taught to lay on any float and prick coat over head.

Once you're away from the wall you lay your trowel full of render / bonding on to new laths and push away from yourself and back over the work that you have prick up or just laid on, this will stop it peeling or dropping off.

Its the first coat you push through the laths. quote="Richard those that have are probably getting thin on the ground and on the top. :lol: Steve, I was taught to push away when you render or a float coat on a ceiling.

I think the height is 22 inch but look through this site and that will have all you need to know. http://www.chimneysweeps.co.uk/index.htm

I hoped you'd see the funny side of it :D

Oh Richard, None of us would say that. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Screw a 10 mm door stop down the right about a foot away from the corner and fill in both sides as you work down the wall and rule off from the old to the wood and into the corner then remove the wood and fill in, pva the whole wall and skim the lot from corner to corner, or cut back and skim...

What is a cement slurry? Water & cement, mixed like a thick paint.

Render stop bead, its mostly in industrial buildings that you find them, and the spec will say if they are 10 or 20mm space and they are filled with mastic between the beads.

true, but most likely to shrink as the building dries out with time.

A board will flex in and out but you can't make it wider. :lol:

1john. It might tear your board in half or pull it off the dabs one side, much harder to fix if it does.

Two skim stop beads face to face and CAULK, :lol:

I take it you mean mm :D yes fill with skim then cover with your scrim. You beat me to it TM but the old way is to fill with your skim then run your scrim in to the wet scrim then lay on.

Yes you can, don't know how permanent fix it will be though if the slabs are moving but give the repair area a good wet down and while its still wet mix up a cement slurry and paint on it and add your sharp sand / cement mortar while the slurry is wet.

I like your way Roy, I'll have to give that a try.

Its a lot easier to do a small mix and quicker to do 2 or 3 small than one big mix. work one side. when your full mix is still to stiff, work half of it and as that work soften include a bit more of the stiffer bit into it until you have it all fatty and soft. Its one of them job that would...

Well that's a good example of shrinkage cracks, that might be soft sand as well, its got to come off and be done again. I agree with rc on the cause.

but was thinking of using one of my flexi buckets, add sand and cement and lime in correct ratios for mix and add mixed water/plasticiser/waterproofer into a 'well' in the middle and use my plaster mixer on slow speed to mix up. Is this possible or a no-no? It might work, I've never tried...

Sorry, Steve but I have got to disagree with you on using soft sand. unless you know that Wickes soft sand is course, around here a soft sand is like baking flour and no bloo*y good for render.