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Just the backer boards should be amble. They have to be set with adhesive as well as being screwed down. Otherwise you could overboard with 15mm ply which wouldn't add much more height than you are currently considering. Ply and backboards is not going to provide much insulation at all. I...

Yes, but it is driven the same way every day, it will be fine for months then suddenly just wont start. I guess when the temp drops it makes matter worse. Do you think its worth popping a charger on every other weekend to top the battery up? I keep telling the wife to take it for longer runs.

Happened again this morning. Fine on Friday, not used over the weekend. Then doesn't start this morning. Jump start it and it is fine. I have check all the leads for breaks and corrosion, all seem fine. Earth straps are all securely attached. Going to get a new battery I think, might see...

The picture posted is Ditra, It is heavier than it looks and should stay reasonably flat when rolled out. Plus the addy should grab it easily. Note with this stiff the manf. recommend using a 3/16" V-notched trowel, not always that easier to find and you certainly wont get it in Topps...

I would be inclined to rip the ply up and replace. Unless it is a massive area it is only going to cost less than £100 and take a couple of hours. You will then have a nice clean and flat surface to tile on. I don't know how well the new addy would bond but the biggest problem will be the...

Cement boards must be bedded on adhesive, this it of ill any voids and give a solid base, otherwise the board and tiles can crack. Hardibacker is recommended to be installed using a 1/4" notched trowel so you wont be adding much in the way of thickness from the addy, especially after it is...

tpt has the bases covered. One point to pick on the OPs post. Your chippie says you can tile straight on to the chipboard, but what does your tiler say? If he says you can, fire him. Find one that says its a terrible idea and suggests using WBP ply as this is the best option. Especially...

I don't use spacers any more as I prefer to do it by eye. For large tiles you will probably want about a 5mm gap. All the sheds and tiling shops sell spacers, they are simply white plastic crosses. If you use the spacers, make sure you use them correctly. Many people believe they should be...

Are you saying he wants no space between the tiles or that he doesn't want to use the white plastic cross spacers? There should be a grout gap for two reasons. Firstly it allows some expansion between the tiles as tiles will expand and contract. Secondly tiles are rarely square and true so...

I think tpt has covered off the fact that PVA shouldn't be used anyway but to further add that PVA can be re-activated by water and the OP is talking about a bathroom here. I guess it is a moot point as tpt has said the manufacturers tell you not to anyway but thought I would point it out.

If the tiles are mounted on hardibacker then you don't need a waterproof grout. As tpt has said you would need epoxy which is mega bucks and a git to install. Go for a decent trade grout such as BAL. Don't buy from Wickes as the stuff they stock is rubbish. Topps Tiles stock all the stuff...

Tile first, fittings after. It looks better and you don't have to fiddle with cutting tiles round the bog and sink.

If you really want to remove it use a paint stripper. Not nitromors though, it works but is nasty stuff. Brewers stock an environmentally friendly one which I can't remember the name of but works very well and there are no noxious fumes. Otherwise as has been said if the paint has adhered...

Thanks chaps. I thought the flipping of seals was odd too. Other manuals (including the Audi workshop manual I acquired for my old car) all say take the cap of the reservoir and check the level as you push back. First time I have ever seen it specifically state not to do that. I have heard...

Following from this thread: http://www.diynot.com/forums/automotive-repairs/dealing-with-corrosion.351321/ I have started to strip the brakes down to replace the discs and pads. The Honda manual states that when pushing back the piston the hose should be clamped and the bleed nipple...

The thickness of the addy depends on how big the tiles are (larger tiles need a larger notched trowel), how even the floor is, and down to how much the person doing the tiling puts down. It genrally shouldnt be be more than a few mm. Yes you can tile direct on to the concrete and you should...

Joints in aqualpanel should be filled with flexible adhesive and then tapped over, iwith the ap tape. You ca also use silicone but make sure not to get it on the face of the board as the addy wont bond to it. Aqua panels dont need priming. Unless you also using a membrane you need s rews...

If they are lifting easily then as they others have said overtiling them is no good. It might be worth investigating whether the tiles do actually contain asbestos. If they don't then you can rip them out no problems. Some people seem to have a very relaxed attitude towards asbestos...

Tiling over the top is not the best idea but, if the tles are well stuck down it might be ok You should probably prime with SBR first. I can understand your reluctance to remove the tiles. Over boading with ply will be difficult because you are going to need to fix the ply down to the floor...

I always DIY the work so don't worry about labor but the price of parts has killed cars in the past. I used to have a V6 Audi. Both cats went and they were £1600 for the pair. Pattern parts were available but they didn't live up the expectations of the Audi ECU and they trigger the MIL all...