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Fail to see your logic here. That same sludge you refer to has been flowing round your microbore pipework for the past x number of years every time you put the heat on and you weren't worried about it then. It doesn't matter how you drain the water off.Just do it the quickest way THEN take...

No.Not that simple unfortunately. Nope.Mainly because they are generally more reliable/better made. Anyway,you pays your money...

Repair the leak properly. Anything else is a bodge. If you are emptying all the rads anyway there won't be much water left to drain off. Besides which, if you drain the system, you won't have to empty all the rads one by one-this would take four times as long!

He sounds like the man for the job. Forget Glow-worm. WB or Vaillant are the preferred choice. Room thermostat is not going to put the price up by much .Don't forget your trv's on radiators are not going to give you the same level of control. They aren't going to turn your boiler off like the...

perhaps your radiators are undersized?

No probs. Save the Flexseals for outdoors preferably round the back of old bingo halls and council tenement blocks. :wink:

Cut your floorboards back first-they are expendable. Yes the other end will take any 4 inch pan connector.

No problem. To be honest I would say one out of four bathrooms I have done I've needed the 3.5 inch adaptor. I've seen plenty of 4 inch pan connectors rammed in to 3.5 inch soil branches with the fins partly cut away- not good.The trouble is people don't know about them because they don't sell...

This is a Flexseal rubber coupling with a jubilee clip at each end. I personally wouldn't want one of these below floor level where it can't be inspected, bearing in mind the seal is on the OUTSIDE of the soilpipe. They do work but are always a bit of a last resort.

A 3.5" multikwik extension piece/adaptor would fit inside you soilpipe if you are struggling with a 4 inch. You can trim it back a bit if necessary and and just use your 90 deg pan connector to connect it to the pan. see here...

Your hot water cyclinder is probably quite old if it runs off gravity circs. It is likely you would need a new one with a coil suitable for pumped hot water. You would also need: zone valve(s) and a cylinder stat as well as all the other controls wiring in, which is not a five minute job. This...

Not much between them. Vaillant has stainless steel heat exch. which might matter to you. Worcester offer 5 yr warranty as standard if fitted by an approved installer.

I don't think you'd be throwing money away if you went for either of those.

yes thats possibly true. B n Q do the washer for this- £1.78. Bought one last week. It is a diaphragm washer with a red plastic insert.

Or even the one shown in the previous poster's link!

No,but you don't need a like for like replacement. You could use a Torbeck or maybe even a Fluidmaster bottom entry valve instead.

No he means that inside the boiler will be some terminal blocks. Three of these will take your incoming live neutral and earth. There will be two more terminals which would have had a small link wire between them when boiler was new. This link wire would have been taken out and these terminals...

Am well aware that some heat only boilers require only 15mm gas supply. Only problem is I don't think the OP really knows WHAT they are getting as they are clearly a little confused when they say: 'We had another "engineer" arrive today to quote for a new boiler and upgrade to fully pumped CH'...

Don't worry about the gas cooker -he probably only mentioned it in passing to impress you with his vast knowledge of gas work depite not being registered. If you are having a new boiler installed though, it is fairly certain you will need a 22mm gas supply at least and yes, he is correct, gas...