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So I have the new valve I am going to swap it. Can I ask the gauge that screws in to show the pressure has an o-ring in the end. Bit if screw in tight it doesn't have the gauge showing vertical. (As the picture). Would I be better using loctite 55 cord so I can get the gauge vertical so is...

Will there be a spring under the plastic cap?

It won't effect the pressure reducing mechanism inside?

They screw out easy enough?

Implying taking the head of and PTFE ing the o-ring?

I have this pressure reducing valve leaking from where the black plastic bit screws in to the brass housing. Is a new prv the best fix here? Thanks

No fibre washer to perish

Thanks I didn't no could do with a nut and olive though. It is an acceptable/ good way of doing it?

The tail on taps have a bevel now that will take the seal of an olive. Does anyone pipe taps up with copper pipe and a nut and olive. Instead of a no.62 tap connector or Flexi?

Thanks it's all mains pressure

Best not to?

Is it ok to pipes these up with flexis with an iso valve?

Would it be advisable to try putting Rockwell around it to try give abit of room?

It's an elbow for a rad.

If I had to could I put rockwell around the fitting?

If putting plastic pipe in a wall chase. Is it not advisable to solid plaster over any fittings?

I can use a multi meter. I can test for resistance etc. What would I need.go test on the immersion?

MCB. Maybe best having an electrician look at it first?

What could be making an immersion heater trip when turned on at the switched fuse spur? It immediately trips on the main board. Thanks

I am swapping some rads and altering pipework on a system. A couple of rads I am leaving unfilled(Off on the valves). So the decorator can remove to paint. Would the system be ok without inhibitor in after I refill for say 4 days? I could then add the inhibitor when I put the rads back on after...