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Let that be a lesson g4u. Another example of the futility of answering questions that have far more to do with Ebenezerness than DIY.

Disagree there g4u. Had no trouble with any regular version Pro or Plus, more grief with 600 system. Would rather use 400's even with a sealed system kit.

The regular boiler will have far less water connection than the combi to worry about. Also the Camray does not have the down firing burner of the other Greenstar models. That said still agree with gremlin, HE models not as good as old Worcesters and Grant Vortex has been out longer and is more...

The gauge probe plugs into a manifold-like connection on CDI. Dirt usually collects in the port. It is that which needs cleaning, not a new gauge.

It was only for overflow from roof tanks. It had to exit close to walkway so had to be brought down the wall, customer wanted black and it's all the local merchant had hence only time I've used it.

Not really sure but the only time I used polypropylene pipe was externally and the fittings were all push-fit. The only thing I can think of is that it's supposed to take higher water temperatures than ABS or MUPVC, so whether there's an expansion issue might explain it.

How public spirited of you. But given your obvious talent with braided flexis, coupled with a disdain for plumbers, it's a pity your neighbourly charitable concern didn't extend to helping the old biddy yourself.

Careful namsag, the words they're looking for are ex partner.

Where did you see this replacement updated combi DIY fitted? Was it a mate, someone who casually asked you in from the street perhaps, asking "would you like to see my DIYed updated combi?" Maybe it was in a capacity as some sort of DIY Inspectorate.

What you appear to have missed though is that they're charging well over the odds for the flue kit. Never mind you could always buy the boiler, then the flue elsewhere. Of course you'll save more money if you don't buy the flue at all.

You've raked up a 5 month old post to make your PC statement. Yes it's open to anyone, black, white, yellow, bent, straight, fetish, fat, skinny, short, tall, bald, hairy, carnivor, veggie, omnivor even those with nut allergies and any and all combinations therein. What you should have...

Maybe there's a bit of a braided flexi-hose fest going on at the forum tonight.

No need to apologise. Call me too liberal but we seem to have a different interpretation of a baddy. You think it's someone who charges an elderly lady, not much more than most and less than some, for a plumbing repair. I think it's someone who hits an elderly lady over the head and...

Are you sure? I doubt you'll need advice from (as you say in your other post) us "jobsworth plumbers that rip people off by charging £100 to repair a burst cold main etc...."

Those with more than half a brain do a proper job. PS. Please, do tell the forum more about the 'lot of jobsworth plumbers that rip people off charging £100 to fix a 15 m cold water pipe burst'. Or is that 15mm?

You can only feel the outlet, as far as you can, downstream from CH port on HW mode. You will get heat transfer but if it gets almost too hot to touch it's passing to CH side.

The rigid spacer type ones are far better and are available in various sizes.

Boiler will fire everytime you turn on tap and continue after to top up HW primary heat store (controlled by store stat). This will take priority over CH so r/stat shouldn't interfere in this mode. If during this heat is passing down CH port and rads heating then fault may be with motorised...

Are both your old and new clock external or was the old one a Worcester integral type?