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I'd just explain the situation to potential buyers, and that if they have a problem with it you can fit some cheapo doors to help grease the sale.

Soot mixed into linseed oil?

The cheap option is to cut grooves across the back of each board, so that the joists sit in the grooves and lower the floorboard to the same level as the others around it. Or, you could always find a local woodshed with a large bench, and have him chop a few mm off.

If some ***** builder quotes you massively higher for lime repointing, get someone else in :) I don't know the cost of the job, but to get the cement out isn't that difficult, if you have some ladders, a drill, and hammer and chisel you could do it yourself. http://www.womersleys.co.uk/...

t1mgreen, why does it need dampproofing?

Makes great compost.....

Big hammer, bolster chisel, elbow grease, then get it levelled off if you damage the surface.

indeed.

I was once told that wax string is very good for this, provided you can get a close match with the colour.

To get a chimney cleaned should be no more than £50, and thats what I paid for 2 :)

ahhh so thats how its done. The difficult bit of laying a carpet I imagine is cutting it to fit the room. Well thats done, so this looks dead easy. I wonder if I can hire one of those knee kicker things.

Well, you could try pulling the dented piece of laminate out (try lifting it out with a craft knife, if that doesn't work then a dab of superglue and a bit of wood). Once its out, fill the area behind it with PVA glue, stick the laminate back down, and weigh it down with a piece of glass, so...

http://www.womersleys.co.uk/acatalog/natural_insulation.html If its an old house, keep things natural :)

Right, I've just built a hearth for my cast iron fireplace (and very nice it is too). The trouble is, the hearth is much bigger than the old one, therefore I had to cut the carpet back. There is enough carpet flopping over the top of the hearth to get it trimmed and looking nice, but I don't...

Mullin, Masona's advice sounds good. When I first got this place there were problems as you describe, the main culprit being the downstairs shower room which had zero ventilation - and a ceiling covered in dark mould. The house had been unlived in for several months. I suggest you open your...

You say the house is watertight, that could be your problem right there. Whats the external wall? Cement render? Pebbledash? Or just plain brick? Any cavity wall insulation?

USE A STICKY BACK PLASTIC HOOK AVAILABLE FROM MOST SUPERMARKETS

I wouldn't recommend using any modern materials like polystyrene. Look at it this way - when it was built, did they use polystyrene? I'm not sure how polystyrene would interfere with the natural ability of the bricks and mortar to breathe. I doubt there are any advantages. If you're thinking...

If its built around 1880, check to see what mortar was originally used. Chances are it was lime mortar - get it repointed with lime mortar if thats the case, it will help reduce damp and frost damage, and look nicer. It shouldn't cost any more than cement mortar. As for cleaning the bricks...

On my sash windows (1910) the cavity is sealed with mortar, and covered with a piece of wood.