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I'm installing a working cast iron fireplace in my front room, to replace the non-working decorative bedroom fireplace that somebody so thoughfully installed :roll: The fireplace you see below is the one I'm removing. The one I'm replacing it with is much larger. This is a good...

Yeah, thats right. The groove is about 3mm wide. Many thanks for the help, do you know where I can buy some (online is ok).

Any idea where I can buy the rubber draught excluders for external doors (timber)? The cross-section is a circle, with an upwards pointing arrow on top. The 'arrow' fits into a groove on the edge of the doorframe, so that when the door is closed, it compresses the circular bit between the...

From another forum, so I don't have the link, but it does seem rather heavy-handed. I seem to recall similar legislation regarding double glazing, personally I think they can shove it up their arse, but I'm not ignorant of electrical safety, or common sense. Perhaps its designed for those...

Its not the nails that would be the problem, its the transmission of energy from a persons heel to the wooden floor, which is why carpets are generally preferred for upstairs rooms. Think about it this way - if you struck a frying pan with a hammer, it would make a hell of a clang. Put a...

Excuse my ignorance here :) I have a 2 storey terraced house, circa 1910. I have a 2 feet tall crawlspace under almost all the house. The floors are all floorboards, some tongue and groove, some just planks with a few mm gap. Is it possible to install a water-based underfloor heating...

The fuse should always be of a lower value than the cable its connected to. For instance, putting a 13A fuse on a 5A cable for an appliance means that the cable could melt before the fuse (and cause a fire).

Sorry, but have there been any confirmed cases of these fires being dangerous? Or are you just being silly?

I sorted it myself. The metal conductor that creates the spark just needed cleaning, there wasn't enough conductivity to produce a hot enough spark.

i wasnt planning on fixing it myself, but I dont want some idiot technician fleecing me for things that dont need fixing

Apologies if this is in the wrong area. http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/product/product.jsp?CATID=164180&entryFlag=false&PRODID=7520181&paintCatId= I've had the above fire for about 2.5 years, during which its worked perfectly. I always leave the pilot light running. Today when I turned it...

I've done most of the rooms in my house. 1) With a punch, recess all the nails in the boards 2) Seal the room 3) Start sanding with the coarsest sanding belt You may have to sand across the grain of the wood, as old floorboards don't stay flat, but become n or u shaped. 4) When...

ok thanks, I will forget the varnish then. I'll post piccies here when its down (will be a while yet).

Innocent question here, whats wrong with varnishing an Oak floor? Remember this is a bathroom, and the floor is going to get wet. Every day.

Well I was thinking about the glue more in terms of fixing the boards to the joists. How does this secret nail system work?

I'm thinking glue is the best way. Whats best to use, bearing in mind people are walking around on it and I don't want it to come loose in a few years?

I'm doing my bathroom soon. The floorboards are too badly damaged to leave bare, so I'm pulling them out, and want to replace them with oak flooring. I've seen some flooring in a local yard, about £55 a square yard. Its about 3/4 inch thick, and about the same width as my current boards, so...

http://www.johnson-doors.co.uk/ I got my bifold door from there, and its very good quality. They might sell you a track if you ask nicely.

Find a local carpenter, and get some bespoke ones made up.

Unless the windows are 20 feet across, I doubt you'd ever see a saving in energy costs by replacing them with DG units. You'd only end up replacing them after 10 years or so when the seals go. You'll be spending more money than you'll save. If you have condensation problems, then you must...