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Damn...i was sucked in by the thread title. In the olden days i doubt if the photos would have been published. I don't understand why these have been. What a gossip monstrosity of a world we live in. The guy was at a party and joining in the fun. Do we really believe that our young royal...

Wow. Not too sure as to the suitability of Indian sandstone as a drive myself. If i were to do it i'd put it on mortar bed (3:1). Approx 30mm thick. The bed would have to be solid (no air gaps). I would also coat the underneath of each stone with diluted PVA or even SBR as i layed them. Good...

It would appear that the SE wants 225mm depth of solid support for the steels. Hence the 3 courses of eng. bricks. Cutting the padstones, as you suggest, Gives you only 100mm depth of solid support. The SE has worked this out. You should go with it. Do it right and be safe. As a bricklayer...

Excellent photos. The valley looks ok the tiles look like they been cut ok. But there is no mortar underneath them. The mortar would form the valley sides if you see what i mean. This must be done before you can say the job is finished.

If i'm reading this right then there should be tiles cut in parallel with the valley. These end tiles should be filled underneath with mortar. So rain water doesn't go into your loft. Any chance you can take a pic or two ? and post them in this thread.

is the cavity clear at damp course level ? Quite often with old buildings you get snots (excess mortar) from the back of brickwork and debris filling the cavity to a level higher than the damp course. This must be clear. Preferably 150mm lower or at least 75mm lower than the damp course. When...

I would bed a slab over it. When you cap off a chimney you must put a couple of air bricks in stack. On opposite sides ideally.

I think sealers are worth it. Get a good one though. Not always the cheapest. I did a drive recently for a customer. They loved it. I advised them to seal it. They said they would think about it. 4 weeks later their Car leaked oil onto drive. If it had been sealed this would'nt have been such...

Yeah your dry mortar idea sounds fine. Try not to get any on surounding blocks as it will stain when you come to dampen it with water can. Best sealer i've heard of is Resiblok 22 i think it's called. Never sealed a drive yet but all i've heard is good things about it. There are cheaper...

The cracks where the bay window joins to house may be where the windows were replaced and the new plaster work/filler has just dried out too quickly. Looking at the photos it doesn't look too bad at all. Nice looking house in fact. The new pointing up the ashlar effect corner actually...

I had this with a house that was built in 1908. The floor in the front room sloped down as you walked towards bay. Have a look outside and see if there is any cracks in outside brickwork. If there is then you may have settlement. maybe even a little susidence. If there isnt then it...

I can't really work anything out from the pics (must be my eyes). Are there air bricks. If it once was an open access cupboard it wouldn't have need for them. Soon as you've put a door on the cavity will need air flow. I can't work out how big the area is that is a problem. But it would be...

Why you would even mention being scared of a Millwall fan is beyond me. :roll: Stereotypes huh ? I actually like little blackpool. Mainly for Holloway the manager and the spirit he has evoked. I was gutted for him and Blackpool fans when they got relegated. I hope you do go up...

ooeerr missus. Can't wait :shock:

Thanks Tony. I was just wondering. My utility room is the same. People we bought off had put up battens with 25mm jabolite (polystyrene) in between 2"x1" battens then fixed plasterboard. The room is bloody freezing in winter though. Not too bad when heating comes on (double 800mm rad). Cos...

Hi, I have 9 guitars, a bass guitar and a banjo. I've played in many bands (nothing famous). I still play and record in my spare room which is set up as a kind of studio. I still have my 100watt and 150watt HH amps that i used in the bands. But i mainly use my fender champ12 (valve) for...

Bloody good start to the season for us.......not !! You did well coming to us and taking the three points. Not many teams do that. Clearly caught us with our 'crackers' down......ha.

What about the plasterboard with insulation attached to it (i think it was 60mm thick)? i think you just fix it like dry lining boards. This was done on a refurb i worked on where the walls were 9" solid walls. Myself, i didn't think this was right as there wasn't a moisture barrier. Just...

As above really. If however you proceed i would certainly apply drainage in the shape of 40mm wast pipe, slightly recessed form the face, 100mm from the ground level, on face side, 600mm apart. If the back of the wall isn't going to be seen i would consider backing it in 6" dense concrete...

Ha..... sussed (watford gap). Its a fair cop Eddiem