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yes you should, alitle bit of grease every now and again on the drill bit that goes into the chuck

dig down in the soil, put some plastic in the bottom to prevent damp coming up, pour in concrete to desired height and put slate down

Shouldn't be. Why do you want to replace the wood, is it rotten etc...? the old wood is probably better than anything you'll replace it with

If you take the head off a TRV it will be fully open. If this is a permanent arrangment then you should look to replace with a locksheild valve IMO, either that or just leave it on max.

Hi Last year we moved into our new house with an old CH and boiler system which seemed to be fine. Recently I have noticed the pressure creeping up and up on the boiler until I had to take some water out of the system to bring the pressure back down. I have to bleed 1 radiator every week...

Thanks again RedHerring I'm a little unsure by what you mean by "should be finished off from above roof line." Do you mean in an ideal world, the roof above the wall should be removed and the top of the wall finishing from above? I'm also unsure how to close the cavity as the bricks are...

Thanks for your reply RedHerring2 It is a gable end and the chimney is approx 0.75m wide and 1.6m high at its heighest point. The chimney doesn't appear to be mechanically tied into the outer skin at any point, only the inner skin. Here are some pictures: the scond one showing that the...

We have a 1903 victorian semi-detatched house and one of the chimneys stacks has been removed and roofed over and the chimney breast's on the 2 floors below have been removed, however they have left the small section of the chimney in the loft which seems to be supported on a steel. (its not on...

Yes its a combined sewer which stinks a bit hence the trap. Sorry it wasn't clear from the photo but its only rainwater going into that drain, I'd never dream of installing a trap or having such a shallow angled horizontal piece on a soil pipe. There is a slight drop on the horizontal. I...

I've got the bosch blue 10.8v screwdriver and it a brilliant bit of kit

its not a soil stack, its a drainpipe from a roof gutter. Why would the trap block up, especially as I'm going to fit a debris gulley?

have got some good tower pincers but they are no good until the head is clear of the wood, I was hoping the cats paw would be better than digging and prying the head of the nail out with a screwdrive

why didn't the plumber reseal it? if its silicone, cut it away with a stanley knife and scrape as much off the tiles and shower tray with out causing damage, then replace with new good quality mould resistant silicone.

what Ricke21 said, get digging first so you can see what you're dealing with first. We had exactly the same thing on our house. Dug down to find the last straight section of pipe wasn't very secure in the previous socket so took that piece out which made it easy to cut a neat square end on it...

great idea, i'll do that. Thanks

Have had to replace a drain and have put in a new water pipe under our tarmac front path and I need to make good the path until we do up the front of the house in 6 - 8 months where its probably all going to be ripped up and probably replaced with yorkstone. I have back filled the holes with...

can anyone recomend a good quality cat's paw for pulling small to medium sized nails out and where is the best place to buy it from? Got hundreds in our staircase that I'm trying to get ready for sanding. Thanks

buy a cheap battery drill of 14v or 18v from the likes of aldi or lidl when they have them in. will do the job fine

also can be in inches ie 8x2"