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Thanks Hotrod. To summarize, Concrete block 7N chimney breast with concrete lintel. Then pva'd and a coat of Victus screed. Then a top coat of Victus plaster. This should be sufficient for all of the external block work of the fireplace and also in the opening around where the...

Richard, A lot of information. :D still a bit confusing though. Perhaps youcould answer thismore directed question? In a nutshell, what would be the preferred way to accomplish the following? False chimney breast using concrete blocks with concrete lintel and finished with a smooth...

Richard and Hotrod, Thank you both very much for the information. I am reading through it as we speak, but I suspect I will have some more questions at some point. :mrgreen:

Hotrod, What about plastering the outside? Dot and dab standard plasterboard and then skim or would it have to be a different type of board? And also, the inner visible section of the fireplace where the stove would sit. Plaster sufficient here? Reg's say plaster is deemed non...

Thanks very much Hotrod for the reply. To answer your question, at this moment in time I am considering my options with regards to having a Hetas installer do the whole job v's submitting b'regs and self installing. I am confident that I can physically do the install myself no problem, but...

To add.... Building regs Part J give examples of a NON combustable wall as being of concrete, metal and plaster. Could I therefore have a false fireplace made from concrete blocks with a concrete lintel across the front? If so, does it have to be any particular concrete blocks?

Cant find any info on it. I want to have a wood burner in my home, and the flue would exit out through the top passing straight up and through the ceiling. Instead of having the full pipe on show I would it to look as though it was a normal chimney and fireplace. Does anybody know of...

oh, and the wood is pressure treated.

Can anybody advise whether to use Screws or nails and if so, any particular type? The fence is 3' high picket with wood gravel boards. :?:

Thanks for the reply. This is purely intended as a 6" compacted sub base for a 2" gravel top.

Not a discrepancy, the figures in the first post are from the same company (company 2).

I have 2x companies local to me offering the following: company 1- Type 1 crushed concrete £15 per ton +Vat Company 2- Non certificated crushed concrete £11 per ton +Vat 75mm to dust. Aside from the fact that company 2 has 75mm (quite big for my driveway?) to dust, any reason why one...

Thanks for the reply. I understand what you are saying, but does that mean it is no good for a sub base?

Can anybody please tell me what the difference is between the certificated and non certificated crushed concrete? I need some for a gravel driveway I am doing on my home, and the MOT type 1 certificated stuff is £38 per ton plus vat, where as the non certificated stuff is only £11 per ton...

Many thanks again for the reply. :D

Thank you for the response :D 1 bag per post, that's good news too as it'll save a little bit of money and mean i'll probably be able to get all the bags I need into the boot of my car. So I just need a post hole digger? or one of the hand turn auger things? Any advice here please :?

Fence is a 1m high picket fence, 2x separate sections - one at 10m the other at 7m.

Having just looked at the prices 25kg of Rugby post fix is the same as a 25kg bag of normal cement. It seems that post mix would be simpler/easier for me them.

Thanks for the quick reply :D Would I need to buy either an auger or one of the post digging tools I have seen? im guessing if I used a spade it would make too big a hole in diameter and then that would need more concrete to fill. I dont know but I am guessing that buying some 25kg bags...

I plan to fit a new fence on my front garden. I don't yet have either a post hole digger or some gravel and post fix for digging. Given the cost of these items still yet to be sourced I wondered if it would be easier/cheaper to use metal spikes for the posts instead? I have never used the...