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I am no longer a BG customer due to issues like this. When they serviced my previous boiler, putting it back together they managed to trap the ignition lead cable and sliced through it, so boiler failed regularly from the day they serviced it. Got them out again, and they charged me £99 to...

There are two thermostats in play here, your room one which calls for heat and also the thermostat on the boiler itself which controls how high the system water can get (i.e. the water inside the radiators). Once all your radiators are nice and hot, if the boiler kept burning they would get...

This is an interesting read about stainless steel vs aluminium heat exchangers and corrosion. http://www.sortedgas.co.uk/boilers Stainless steel is resistant against condensate corrosion, so much so that Viessmann have 10 year warranties against corrosion on theirs and ATAG have a lifetime...

Don't suppose there's a DIY way to test the static pressure without having to fork out £20 for a pressure gauge?

Never measured it to be honest. It is on the high side, always seen that as a good thing having an electric shower fed from the cold mains.

Thanks, going to give one of the water hammer arresters a try, just ordered one from Screwfix. We recently had a conventional system replaced with a combi, so in the airing cupboard outside the bathroom where the cold feed went up to the header tank, this has just been topped off with a pushfit...

You could be right, we get dreadful water hammer, and I have just turned off the cold tap quickly whilst holding the replacement hose and I can feel it bulging slightly.

It was whatever B+Q sold 3 or so years ago. The ones on their website now say WRAS approved.

Woke up at 3am on Saturday to an almighty hissing sound coming from the bathroom. Turned out the flexible tap connector hose had burst... Does anyone know what could have caused this? It's only been on 3 years yet appears completely rusted - no leaks as far as I could tell, just always...

Neither of those scenarios really, as I said in the first post the boiler itself has a 10l/min limiter built into it, so when the tap is on full 10l/m comes out, so I'm trying to figure out what is the best DHW temp to have it flowing out at to get the best efficiency from the boiler.

Thanks for that. I'm wondering if I should be raising the temperature anyway now that I've discovered the 10l/m limiter in there, so I could potentially run a cold tap at the same time causing a faster bath fill. And I assume that is the bit that is seasonally dependent, the boiler may...

What is considered an "acceptable" hot water flow rate these days? I've recently gone to a combi for the first time - mine seems to have a limiter of 10 litres/min (see recent thread) so whatever my cold flow rate, never going to get more than 10 l/m out. I read the average UK bathtub is 1800...

Thanks for that. The only user configurable setting in the boiler menu related to this is DHW temperature which is currently set at 49C but can be changed. After what you've said above, what is the best setting for the DHW temp (and should you change that anyway throughout the year as the...

Could someone in the know please explain what these mean from the specification section of the manual for my boiler... i.e. nominal flow rate 13.8 l/min and set flow rate (max) 10 l/min The boiler is advertised as having a DHW flow rate of 12 l/min... However I'm only getting 10l/m...

I wasn't saying a boiler is like a bucket, I was pointing out a simple analogy that if something restricts a flow rate e.g. a hole in a bucket, then it doesn't matter what rate you put in at, it will always be limited by the restriction.

What is the boiler flow rate for DHW specified as? Mine is rated 12 l/m. It doesn't matter whether 12 or 20 or 100 l/m goes in, 12 l/m will go out. This is due to the way the water flows through the fins of the heat exchanger, etc. Look at it this way, if you have a bucket with a hole...

I recently had a new boiler fitted and it says in the manual it is normal to top up the pressure every few months because the pump in the boiler expels air present in the system over time.

I have a similar situation, I once replaced my bathroom basin cold tap with a new one, at the same time removing a bit of the old pipe leading up to it with a flexi hose connector/isolator valve. Ever since then, whenever cold water is turned off anywhere (dishwasher stopping, toilet flush...

Cheers. The valve was on when we moved in. I'm guessing it's not full bore either, so was considering switching to a full bore at some point to increase the flow from the garden hose.

Over the weekend I had a terrible case of banging pipes, whenever the hot water tap was turned off in the bathroom, the whole house clunked, particularly the kitchen. Eventually narrowed it down under the kitchen sink, and when I held on to some pipes under there I could feel the vibration when...