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I think I’d go for a medium strength thread locking compound, and replacing the screws with Allen screws so you can get them out again. Some heat loosens the compound but it sets again once cooled. Clean the threads and add grease.....it looks a bit gritty in there. John

Several years ago I was involved with the repairs and service of the Mazda Bongo - aka the Ford Frendee. Several of these (3!) came my way. Superb build quality - much better than UK stuff Little rust proofing but good underbody paint Service parts available from a local motor factor, no...

Lock spindles - or follower bars as they were once known - are readily available from Screwfix or whatever. Often 8mm square, they are easy to cut with a hacksaw. John

Agreed, but of course we can’t see the disc condition- it’s usually the inboard face that gets corroded. John

That's exactly how I would do it - maybe your meter has some sort of incorrect polarity function? Maybe set it to 10A, and then just open a door to put the courtesy light on.......something should show! John :)

Before you get stuck in, just check that the grommet isn’t actually a multiplug connector - they can look so familiar! If the grommet is difficult to get out then it’s also difficult to get back in. If you do find a suitable grommet and there’s some space, I usually pierce the grommet in situ...

A massive £50 for us this month :rolleyes::rolleyes: John :)

I guess you could use two of these...

There’s a good chance that the plastic thermostat housing has gone awol here, but get the car up on a ramp if you can. I have had leaks from the EGR on the diesel variants too. John

I think I’d scrub the idea of a metal pipe insert, but rather use the appropriate nylon repair kits from eBay or whatever. The nylon pipe isn’t really cooperative but if it’s warm, the serrated end coupling can be pushed on. John

I guess the car has electric power steering? This rings alarm bells of the battery voltage being low. John

Seriously, trying to thread a thin wall 16mm dia tube is a huge task.......a typical pitch will be 2.0mm metric coarse and a metric fine maybe 1.5mm so it's quite a bit of engineering! Often these threads are rolled on by the factory, and of course we can't compete with that. I'd be looking at...

Threading thin tubing, both internally and externally is notoriously difficult due to the tendency for the tubing to collapse. Maybe you could consider cutting a section out, sleeving it with some other tube and relying on araldite? John

You are showing us the top mounting of the drop link ( stabiliser) here.....they do tend to knock going over a bump but won’t produce the noise you mention. They look fine from here, and the other end connects to the anti roll bar. John

Typical CV joint noise, but what do you mean 'one brake pad'? New discs need new pads all round. John :)

Hellish bad luck here, Rob. Control modules don’t like reversed polarity, try contacting ECU Testing of Heanor for advise here. However, your voltage is too low so get the battery fully charged so it shows around 13v and see if anything has come back to life. Be lucky John

Please also check at the back of the subframe.....where the under tray almost touches the body. Notorious rust area here. John :)

I guess it depends on how easy it is to get the sump off, and your desire to get stuck in. I don’t know the fault but it’s sounds like the oil pick up pipe is loose and sucking air instead of oil. You can replace the big end shells too, but the main bearings are more difficult! So, the fault...

Traditionally white metal bearings were cast in situ onto the connecting rod and then machined afterwards. It’s usually an alloy of lead, tin and zinc in various percentages, with occasionally antimony and aluminium present. Shell bearings are much the same but are replaceable and they have a...

+1 for Patio Magic - being the ultimate sceptic about 'green' products, I used this stuff 6 weeks ago on my patio, and there isn't any sign of greenery returning so far. John :)