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To set the choke, you press the trigger, turn the choke knob and then release the trigger. One more squeeze of the trigger and the choke releases. Anyway, that's another machine under your belt - I hope you cleaned the carb up though, and checked the air filter!! John :)

To me, it looks like the throttle trigger needs to drop down a bit - it looks like it’s half pressed already! The switch on the side to the left of the trigger.....is it just an on/off or can it be used to keep the blower at a set speed without touching the trigger? John

Once the badge is off, your biggest problem is sticking it on again......neatly! Maybe you could sculpt some number plate sticky pads if you are good with a scalpel. John :)

It's a little difficult to diagnose this one.......! Would you say the play is actually up and down, in or out, or when twisting the driveshaft? If it's when you are twisting the driveshaft, you have to take into consideration that you are turning the differential too, which will have some...

Aye, you're right Mottie. My mistake!:oops: I looked at the Youtube vid - never seen a U bolt used to tighten things up before. John :)

Go for a new badge, CB - they are self adhesive with tape. I reckon that one won't go back to it's original form, and keep any adhesives well away! John :)

I think you are absolutely right, the grub screw just locates the boss onto the crankshaft and maybe takes up any clearance between the two parts. For sure, this isn't common procedure. Hopefully the blade holding boss will prevent the key from escaping! Blades usually have two locating holes...

You have to ascertain which part is actually loose before progressing further. You'll get some idea if the track rod is at fault if you can get the car up in the air, and get someone to rock the steering as you grip the track rod, feeling for movement. If the inner joint needs to be tightened...

Many thanks for the pics! I can only assume that the small grub screw is meant to tighten down onto a key, but this design isn’t common. No matter, congrats on what you have done and happy mowing, if there’s such a thing! Regards John

If I could obtain the genuine part I’d give it a go, but I wouldn’t bother fabricating my own. We don’t know how strong the material needs to be. John

The clutch compressor won’t engage if the system pressure is low so the thing is to have it regassed first. Some firms will regas the system and, if the gas leaks straight back out, won’t charge you. I use Kwik Fit for mine - takes 40mins. John

I'm still unsure what this orange rubber actually does......sure, if the pins on both pieces connect with the rubber item then it is a true cush drive. The rubber deposits on the drum - is this just dust debris? Surely the rubber item needs to be as thick as the pins are long? (Perils of a small...

Of course, that is a possibility. However, the two aluminium cast parts seem to be flanged, so why not bolt them back together and see if the machine can be rotated by hand? Sorry but I've never looked for Parkside spares - which doesn't say they aren't available. John :)

I'm wondering if this is part of the automatic braking mechanism - or just a dirt seal? Either way, I'd clean out the debris, put it back together and give it a go - if it was mine. John :)

I think you'll need to remove the rocker cover, and expose as much as you can down there.......a core plug failure sounds likely but they aren't always hellish to get to! A coolant leak product will have short lived affects in my opinion. I suppose the level in the expansion bottle is also...

Looking forward to hearing about the outcome! Indeed, the woodruff key is typically half moon in shape, the flat key is called a feather key (with slightly rounded ends) and the list goes on, including a gib key which has a clubbed end! For sure, the engine crankshaft end will be parallel with a...

There's always some sort of key that connects the engine crankshaft to the aluminium boss that holds the blade. Often they get lost when dismantling! A firm called GHS Ltd will be able to fix you up I should think. I'm not sure about the grub screw though, can you give us a pic do you think? John

Tip the machine right back on its handles (not on it's side!) Is there a plastic cover that hides the belt, between the blade and the engine? Fieder machines usually have a gearbox that is tensioned by a spring, but first things first! John :)

I use standard plastic wall plugs and there's never been an issue with them. As for steel I use BDMS (bright drawn mild steel) and cold rolled angle - I don't mind a bit of surface rust as it's rarely seen and there's no way it will corrode through! I'm fortunate that there is a Metals...

With the dozen or so register plates I have made, I've never experienced any issues with the fixings into the side of the chimney. I do tend to use 3mm thick mild steel for the plate and maybe 5mm steel angle though - just for costs really. Expansion has never been an issue for me, and if there...