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Have thought for a while to swap my Y plan to an S plan as the 3 port valve is playing up. I have the 2 port valves so no problem there. My question concerns the need to remove the 3 port valve a fit a copper T piece, mine is done in 28mm. I am wondering could I not leave the body of the 3 port...

Attached are a couple of photos to better show the units concerned. My question revolves around the affixing of said units to the concrete kitchen floor. I have read that one does not need to affix the sheer weight of the setup will be sufficient. On that I am not convinced especially at the end...

Now that the bricks are laid for the bbq I need some support for a grill and fryer. What I need is something to fill a space 450mm deep x 1350mm long which will support a grill plate , weight 30kg and a fryer weight not a lot. I can envisage the top being tiled so I thought why not a piece of...

All completed with no accidents. A couple of points of not the collet extension fastening nut was a close fit in the 30mm guide bush but worked okay. I find it strange that the bit fastening nut on the router will not pass through the 30mm Makita guide bush even though 30mm guide bushes are in...

Ordered a 1/2 in collet extension piece for the Makita roouter. Will do a test run on a spare piece of worktop first.

No but if I did is still not going to be long enough. I do not really understand why the side supports for the drainer jig are so large. The rear of the jig ie side furthest away from sink is 42mm above the work surface no need to be so high. Whole jig could sit 10mm nearer worksurface ,would...

Never knew such a thing existed. Looked them up and seem a way of extending the cutting depth but not if using a guide bush as again the end of the extension will not pass through a 30mm one. Nice avatar by the way.;)

Yes can get various Trend ones prices £25 to £40 dependant on range but all too short in overall length. Agree that the 1/4 with long shanks would be under some strain, could probably do it but need quite a few passes to not take too much off in one hit. There are 75mm long ones from unknown...

Was hoping not to have to spend that much plus the Trend one is only 57mm in total length, not enough for my needs.

Having decided to cut the grooves in my oak draining board I proceeded to get a secondhand mdf jig. As a one off so no need for expensive laminate one. Now jig os 17mm thick for starters. Measuring the slot at the oint where the groove will disappear it is 42mm from jig top to worksurface. Now...

I used the danish oil on a beam would not consider it for a worktop.

Well I have seen pics, one posted of the overhang being negative.

Think is a bit belt and braces like a window cill.

No wind up. Attached 2 photos of both possibilities. And there obviously is a 3rd one having the worktop flush with the sink. So no is not obvious!

Depends whether you intepret a 10mm over hang on the outside or inside edge.

I thought it was not a 10mm overhang but a 10mm in the other direction.

What would you suggest sealing it with? I have WOCA worktop oil which I was going to use.

Yes they all quote to do a drip groove. Attached is a drawing of my setup. Due to the sink only being 20mm thick setting back 10mm will not work evidenced by A I will have to adopt one of the methods B or C . C to my mind is best as none of the drip grove is in contact with the sink. And...

Well lots do not :LOL:. I think I will follow these examples easier to get correct than trying to get a 10mm overhang sides and rear.