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I am okay doing it 10mm just wondered who came up with 10mm? The basin has to be lifted up to the worktop under surface using the legs on the cabinet so any overhang is possible.

You say should overhang the sink ' but not too far' so what is too far? What is their that negates hanging the worktop over hanging the sink by more than 10mm?

Have to fit a Belfast sink to an oak worktop. Have a jig on the way. Reading all the blurb about using the jig all the makes seem the same. Namely they state the worktop should overhang the sink by 10mm, both sides and rear. Also that the worktop should be level with a datum line drawn through...

I just knew that would be the answer, buggar.

I am intending using brick slips over a brick wall covered in render. Can I apply the brick slips directly to the render, if so would it be better to apply a sealant, ie pva first? Or should I remove the render and affix the slips directly to the brickwork?

Not sure if this is right section of forum but here goes have posted in tiling also. I am intending using brick slips over a brick wall covered in render. Can I apply the brick slips directly to the render, if so would it be better to apply a sealant, ie pva first? Or should I remove the render...

Have brought all the boxes out so they sit just behind the level of the current surface so all should be fine for the plasterer's skim coat. Thanks for the replies guys

Am going to put the back boxes so their front edges are just slightly deeper into the wall than the current level of the render, and fill in any large voids with render so he can just put the new skim on.

Above is a photo of example.The blockwork has previous render coat of at least 10mm on it and original boxes were sunk so the front of the back box was level with the block front ie set roughly 10mm in from the finished surface. As I say moving the old box ie the cooker switch box to the right...

Am redoing the kitchen which has involved altering positions of sockets switches etc. My question is the depth of metal back boxes. For example I had to move the cooker switch only some 60mm to the left. So I chopped out the blockwork, soft grey block, which is fine but as before the back box is...

Not a clue what that has got to do with it but yes

Not bothered about an uneven floor above as that is what is currently there and goes with the character and age of the property.All I need is that the floorboards are supported by the joists which hopefully touch the steel beam hence the need for packing pieces.

So may I ask how did the joists not require noggins before when there was an oak beam holdiing them up, well most of them?

"noggins inbetween the bearings" please elaborate.

I physically cannot jack it up so all touch the beam themselves hence the need for packing pieces. Being a 16c property uneven floors are the norm here.

I would have thought not myself hence my suggestion to use plywood. Probably end up with plywood and and slight differences made up by steel shims.

I could use oak as the wood packing as have got lots lying about. Whatever I use will need to be at least 50mm (width of joist) x 130mm (width of the steel beam).

No they are like all the rest nailed to the floorboards above. There iused to be an old oak beam above that was all shapes under the sun hence the varying gaps. Even with the oak beam it appears some of the joists never rested on the oak beam.

As stated 2 are already touching so no room for manoeuvre to jack it up further.

However much the beam is jacked up there will still be gaps plus the two that are not touching would need cutting.