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Hi I have moved on a bit in the last day. I did not remember that I also had an old settop box connected via another auto HDMI switch, so took that out altogether and with the set connected exactly as I first described it is all now working with the ARC connection still intact after screening PC...

I have a panasonic TV, Home Theatre and PVR. To have the Home Theatre play all sound I have set up the equipment to use ARC - All gear is connected by HDMI cables and at this point ACR works PVR connected direct to TV Home Theatre connected direct to TV. Next I add to the Home Theatre an auto...

The bottom of the cast iron pipe where it joins the clay will be rotten. If you are removing the top, pull out the last bit and get a new clean connection to the clay drain. Otherwise you leave the worse part of the stack in place with the possibility of it leaking unseen. I would use an angle...

I think that would work fairly well with lumps as you will probably only be left with a cement mark rather than bits of aggregate. You will have to be careful with the glass.

Avoid the wipe as that just drags aggregate across the soft pvc. Hose it off. With brick cleaning acid you will see the cement bubbling as it is attacked leave it a few minutes then reapply if required until you don't get a reaction from the cement. It is no good on lumps of cement only smears.

Brick cleaning acid will attack the cement but if your frames have paint as well it is not the way forward. If PVC let the acid do the work and wash off afterwards On bricks I use a nail brush to apply as it is all plastic. It will not harm the glass or the PVC but avoid rubbing as that will...

As Woody has said you are responsible for compliance with the building regulations so choose your builder carefully as a good one will make sure it does comply. For a small extension you will usually find some technician can do you a drawing at low cost (check your local paper if none is...

The planning aspect of things seemed to have been covered, but remember you will also need Building Control approval and I would suggest you go down the plans route for that so there is something clear for your builder to quote on and follow.

That insulation part is usually only necessary if your incoming supply is adjacent to an external wall. If the supply comes in and rises on a wall around 750mm away from the external wall then you would not need to insulate it. (Unless some the regs have changed and I have not seen those for...

I don't think it is safe to say from those drawings. You need to know where the floor joists run etc. The flat above has two levels and that wall is right where a change in levels occurs (flight of steps). It really needs looking at insitu by a competent builder or structural engineer

For slabs you really want rails set level so you can draw across whatever you use for tamping, then pull out the rails and locally fill to the main concrete just poured. On commercial projects scaffold poles in cradles are often used or even bespoke systems. The good thing about a scaffold tube...

Thats OK but if the OP is looking to get as near to the original impervious layer as possible then the most likely layer will be any clay. Unfortunately it is also a most difficult material to compact and you certainly won't even give yourself a chance if you try to do it in a thick layer...

See http://www.rjpryce.com/Products/osma-110mm-below-ground-drainage/WV4D328 Looks like the "frame" is bust as well. If so and especially if it is distorted a new frame and cover would be better but make sure it is suitable for traffic not just pedestrians. If you know how it got broken then...

To be honest if you try to compact material you need to work in much thinner layers 250mm is far to much. On major sites using really heavy plant the thickness is usually around 150mm so for what you plan to use no more than 100mm. I don't reckon much on your chance of getting it back as it was...

The sping toggles are in my opinion the last choice as you fit them and cannot remove and re-fix. The gripit seem to need a very large hole and are in my opinion better suited to dry lined walls where you don't have the space for the anchors. Although I use a frame type fixing in that situation...

There is no doubt there is condensation but you are wrong about the single skin to the bay. While some houses have a single skin this one does not. Also be aware the OP has been there 6 years and this is the first time the problem has appeared. - So it is likely something has changed. Vinn...

Judging from the angles in the first photo's the damp is at the corners just before the main wall. On the one side I would check that downpipe when it is raining to make sure water is not coming out of a bad joint and soaking the brickwork or even if the drain is blocked. However that does not...

DaveHerns is right , lets see what is outside that bay with some photo's Check your guttering and make sure water is going down the pipes and not elsewhere. Is the ground outside high relative to the floor inside? What is the wall construction or if you don't know what is the age of the...

Oh! - Was past my bedtime so missed that, (y)

No I mean removing the timber floor entirely and building a solid floor.