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Woody has already told you the most sound bit of advice - reduce the water content of the concrete. You can get concrete to set fast sure, but that is not dry fast. The water locked into the mix needs to work itself out, so the less you put in the less to evaporate. once the concrete has cured...

When things are out of level that much there is really not much you can do to hide it. Cutting the bricks would be ideal if space is going to be a brick down to a cut brick. Get some new imperial bricks if you want, a 73mm high brick is fairly easy to get but there are others even bigger. A...

You don't want to block it off completely. Since that the flue liner is no longer in use you can disconnect the rigid section from the flexible liner and fit a plate across to block off the opening, but put a small vent in the plate to keep an element of air movement there. It may even be...

The thickness of that joint is almost certainly down to a wall tie system like https://www.tradefixdirect.com/builders-metalwork/simpson-strong-tie-crocodile-ties? Some or all of the gap you have may well be just shrinkage of the wide mortar joint

I would not be worried about that crack but if the OP still has some concerns he can DIY the monitoring with Tell tales e.g. https://www.sccssurvey.co.uk/survey-monitoring/crack-monitoring.html

He could look at Barry's books as well, all give a general introduction to buildings and structures but so far as I can remember don't go into the detail to give the answers the OP will ultimately need. "Design of Structural Elements" is not one I have seen but all of Woody's are downloadable...

Having studied structures many years ago I doubt you will find the books that helpful. While some structures are really easy to follow, you would need a broader understanding than most books can help you with. Gross over design is one way of dealling with some situations to avoid having to...

Actually the battens are kiln dried first then treated. So far as I am aware battens are usually dry before treatment it is just that those specified as kiln dried first simply are then in a position to get a more thorough treatment. Edit: To clarify, when I say dry battens I mean with the...

Yes Really

OK, I have used epoxy mortar a couple of times and it is very expensive, but will do the job. You must work accurately with it as it can be difficult to remove if smeared onto surfaces unintended. It may only be the product that I used but the aggregate particles in it mean you cannot feather it...

It sounds as if this is a small job of making good the render. Remove all loose, prime the surface with thinned PVA and re-render using a plastering sand cement mix. Do not make the mistake of using building sand. Avoid doing the work on a hot day with the sun beating down on it as you want the...

You can get kiln dired and treated roofing battens - Not all roofing battens are kiln dried but they are usually dry before treatment. So you will have to shop around for a supplier that meets your specification as it is out there. Also consider you can always cut down timber to a smaller size...

http://www.bytestart.co.uk/self-employed-health-safety-law-change-october-2015.html How the rules will apply to even sole traders

Not enough information at the moment. Is this when opening any Docx file, a new file or an existing file? - If existing I would not rule out corruption in which case it would be best to get a copy or backup of the file. In any event have you checked that your application is upto date.

You can find courses around the country and that would be sensible. It is a great shame they don't have it in schools these days, I attended woodworking and metalworking classes and still have most of what I ended up making, solid oak coffee table contempory design with mortice and tennon...

https://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/Roofing/Fittings-And-Accessories/Dry-Fix-and-Ventilation/Universal-Dry-Valley.aspx

If the plan is to attach the stud to the wall and use packings/shims to correct it where necessary then I suggest you start with the first and last stud fitted plumb then string lines between them and make sure an offcut of stud will pass behind the line. If not, pack out one end stud or both...

One other point is that if you do use lead don't lay that 2.5m in one piece it expands and contracts a lot so you need the laps to allow that to happen or it will split. See http://leadsheet.co.uk/home/lsa-pocket-guide/pitched-valleys/

They are the only ones I use as they doo last longer. The hole in some ply is a good idea except it blanks off the tile so it is hard to be sure it is on target and even a little out is often too much. I use wide masking tape to mark out the hole with a big pencil cross on it. then start the...

See the manual - I don't see any spring in that. It could well be integral with the hinge assembly and if that is broken you need a new hinge link to manual below. You click the pdf icon near the top for the manual. If not broken you may still need to remove the hinge to re-install the spring...