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If your "stone" cill bridges the cavity closer both front and rear, yes (to be safe). Otherwise no. Although if your "stone" cill is impervious to water then it really is not necessary unless it is bedded on mortar that bridges the closer. The mortar is the problem then.

I think you have the gist of it. The safety of your neighbour is the most important aspect of what you propose as a collapse of the wall for whatever reason and injury to person or even damage to their car are what you are safeguarding against. Personally I would be inclined to build a 215 dense...

Any change to the drainage is usually a building control issue anyway. Although you have manholes they may not be to the drainage you need. Generally there are two types of drainage in use, foul and storm. Surface water drains go into the storm system. Charges by SE's will vary enormosly and...

You are not looking at a major issue but you are absolutely right it must be done properly. To that end I would suggest you employ a structural engineer to provide not only a design solution but to sign off the actual work as being satisfactory. Building control have no obligations to you, so...

It will most likely be a multi of some sort. (multiple colouring) measure the height of you brick to see if it is metric (65mm) or one of the imperial sizes. Using the brick selector posted by woody you can then start to narrow down the search. Ideally find a local builders merchant with good...

Two important aspects of mortar are it should be weaker than the bricks and when repointing as noted above, deep enough. If you think the old bricks are soft then use a mix like 1.1.6 which is cement. lime. sand In this case the lime acts more like a plasticiser. The worst you can do it repoint...

It is more of a lobby than a hall and I agree with Woody. Additionally, that lobby is something you may well miss come winter if you decide to remove the wall and in any event the extra lounge space will be unuseable as it is still a circulation area for people coming and going. It has a similar...

Why note read through the dedicated paving site, I have linked to one page on sealants but there is more to read about including polymeric resins for jointing. I would be inclined to fill joints after cleaning out to minimise the amount of crap that will otherwise get in. Zoned sand is a...

Chipboard when it has been water damaged does tear and like all wood products is fiberous. I have seen chipboard looking like that picture, but I would be interested to know how thick the stuff is in the OP's pictures. I am still guessing tho!

looks like chipboard to me

See https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/20/fences_gates_and_garden_walls

That's fine. My own dormer is the same except my frame is hardwood. The outside part of the lead slopes away from the window cill across the tiles. There is no need for any external sealant. With the middle turned up behind the window it really does not matter that you used silicone there. With...

Yes you need to remove a bit from the back. It can be done neatly with a router although you could also do it with a chisel since it is nothing more than a long shallow mortice (in a similar way you let in a the faceplate of a lock). Because your window is upvc you would fix to the structure...

Since there appears to be no reveal you don't have a structure for a window board. all you need is an architrave suitably rebated to accomodate the leadwork. Or perhaps you are thinking of fitting a shelf in which case use shelf brackets and again rebate the back of the shelf butting up to the...

I totally agree with what Woody says if it is on a flue construction, but if it is only nearby then I would suspect something else. Check to see if anyone previously buried some pipework there, I would expect it to be visible in the loft. Other possibles are tank overflows saturating the wall...

A cowboy or uninformed DIYer Well if you think about what appears to be a raft but is not properly reinforced it will cost considerably less than a strip foundation. As a minimum I would want to open up the crack to see if there is any at all.

Best put all the information on this thread. Usually a wall buit on top of boards will be non-loadbearing so you only need to support the weight of the blocks. However it cannot be assumed so it needs checking. Access could be a real problem so why not put some photo's or sketches up so that...

If it is a raft it should have been reinforced and to find a corner cracking is not what I would expect with a properly constructed raft. I would not be inclined to load it up any more with a heavier structure unless a SE is prepared to back that! I have never heard of a raft having the...

It could be some-one has bodged a floor repair and made that corner solid. So is it solid or is it on some suspended structure. Unless the old floor covering that went over it shows signs it is damp I would suggest you just live with it!

The route for the wiring on mine meant the hardwire kit was too short to the rear fuse box I was going to use, so I had to cut the piggy back fuse off. I simply connected it to a spare ignition live but at the same time put an inline fuse on the positive just in case the feed was a higher rating...