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Putting in drainage to front paved areas is OK so long as it DOES NOT discharge into the storm drains. You should use a soakaway. The whole idea behind regulating front paved areas and the way they drain is to stop the practice of people added to an already overloaded storm drain. Essentially...

One that suits the opening! fire rated ones either have deep rebates or intumescent strips or both and minimum 30 mm (finished size, excluding stops). Non fire rated anything goes if it works but the thicker the better as easier to install and secure straight and plumb. Thin ones need more care.

Looks like a section of twinwall. If you get a crowbar and lever the inner into the flueway and basically collapse it inwards you should be able to knock it out. Once the inner is out the way do the same to the outer, then brick up the hole. You need to cut off any bend section first though

The flooding you refer to is probably nothing to do with that movement which may have happened a long time ago. Remedial works would be expensive and you would still have a house that is crooked. I would not be supprised if the roof is all out of level too. Without a full survey and knowing what...

I have seen a few like that. Old terraced houses in areas that were once subject to subsidence. Since the old mortar is soft you rarely get cracks in the bricks and with property improvements walls get replastered and sometimes underpinned and generally made good. The end result is what you see...

One way to check is to get hold of a meter and check the walls yourself. You can buy a meter on amazon but don't take the readings literally, they are OK for comparative readings so the reading high up on an internal wall should give you a dry reading. e.g. one I have seen on amazon...

Sound travels through buildings in two ways (highly simplified explanation!). Structure borne sound - i.e. the thump of footsteps impacting on the floor above and vibration from floor mounted speakers! Airbourne sound - i.e. what passes through the holes/gaps such as the airbourne component of...

A screed is usually applied on a concrete floor not instead of. Screeds (and there is a wide range of types) are used to level up uneven floors and/or to accommodate services, be it UFH or trunking for other services. If concrete is the right mix and the tradesmen know their stuff it can be...

If the wall is not load bearing I agree with woody! If the OP has missed off some information such as the wall will be structural then a new foundation through the floor will probably be required. Depth usually depends on the suitablility of the ground.

I think having an agreement with a professional to check the work is being done correctly would be very wise. I would consider that a better investment than any insurance since problems that become hidden can be very difficult to deal with. As for the insurance issue it can be a minefield and...

You need to look at ways of eliminating the moisture causing the high humidity. Without some specific details it is not possible to help much. I suggest you retype the second sentence as I don't understand it. Do you get any condensation? Raised external ground levels can be a source of DPC...

At least 125mm unless the burner is certified not to heat downwards more than 100 degrees. Read the approved document J Approved document J Perhaps you are talking about a superimposed hearth (onto the constructional hearth) in which case the thickness could be almost anything so long as it is...

This any good

I am not sure if any levelling compounds are suitable because you plan on using it as a wearing surface. - So I would leave that to others to recommend. A sand cement screed would be fine subject to thickness - Avoid making it too thin.

It sounds like you may have "played" around with the concrete too soon with an excessively wet mix. Leave it for now but once it is cured (7 days should be fine) check the surface again. If the surface is still weak then you may need to remove the top surface completely by grinding or scabbling...

Do it in sections. I was once called out to house that needed underpinning, the builder had excavated to existing footing level alongside the wall in an effort to speed things up so the underpinning could be done quicker in sections, but before he even started to dig out a section the footing...

You just need to avoid perpendicular joints lining up on any two courses, a 1/2 overlap is ideal but a 1/4 is acceptable

No I would lay it at the same level as your hangers, top of the breeze blocks

Because the hole is so big, I would do similar to what John D has suggested, a damp mix concrete shuttered from below, however I would scabble the side of the hole first with a scutch chisel to give a mechanical key.

I have replaced a bath with a shower tray and the width is good at just 700mm. So you would have a roomy tray in that layout. Be careful of an inward opening door, make sure your layout does not cause the arc of the door to clash with either WC or basin.