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Acrylic satinwood - two coats in one day easily, won't yellow, easy clean up, low odour. OB gloss - slow drying, goes yellow, laborious cleaning, stinks Dulux and sikkens both do good WB satinwoods, good prep and two coats required. OB gloss is deader than disco.

I think its only available in 2m lengths, probably for ease of installation as the product is aimed at the diyer.

With over 4000 posts i'm sure the op is well aware of the yellowing paint problems (which actually began following the VOC changes in 2010), but thats not his question is it? IMO the most important part of a paint system is the primer, MDF can be very porous and could draw in a lot of water...

Aqua's not bad but he's asking about a primer. Zinsser recommend 123, once this is applied you can finish the ceiling with whatever paint you want as i'm sure you know :)

Theres loads of info on water based glosses on here so i'm not gonna go into that. Emulsion wise Little green is superb but pricey (worth every penny IMO). Armstead is a good drop of paint and Brewers own brand Albany is ok. Avoid at all costs the sheds own brand stuff.

You could line it or apply an anaglypta paper as a temporary measure.

WB and acrylic are the same thing. There are alkyd/acrylic hybrids but i doubt new build decs use them because of price, they generally use contract paints, something like Leyland

Osmo oil

Its going to be difficult to find the colour. If i was you i'd go to the nearest 'seller of paint' to your house as its more than likely thats where the previous owner went, grab every colour card and offer them up against the wall. Choose the nearest three colours, get small sample pots and try...

I used some zinnser watertite recently and put it on with a cheap medium pile 9" sleeve and 2" brush, chucked both afterwards. The thompsons is probably very similar. Gloss rollers slip and slide around too much. Its quite thick and coverage pretty average, a 4" will take forever and you'll...

Its not a thixotropic paint so i doubt very much is says do not stir on the tin, stirring is essential with most paints as they separate in the tin as yours has done. Stir it well and you'll be ok to use straight away.

Its too cold, retarded drying means moisture in the air will settle on it and freeze. It will struggle to 'film form' and cure as well.

A coat of gardz will rectify the problem if you're worried

sanding the filled area would make it worse as it would be smoother, whole wall needs sanding and painting, unless it will touch up by running a mini roller over the areas that are showing up, only decent paints allow you to do this though.

It won't last two weeks.

You could have a look at bedec msp, not sure if it goes over tiles or not. Failing that you need a high grip primer suitable for exterior use. The important thing here is not the paint but the primer, you do obviously need an exterior paint though.

The filler should be primed. You probably have a mixture of flashing because it wasn't primed, and the smooth finish of the filler not matching the texture of the wall which has built up over years of painting or the wrong sleeve being used. Had they rubbed the walls down this would have...

Bit of a stretch doing such a large job for nothing and the point remains that you don't know how to do it. Leave it to someone that does, that's all i'm saying.

You refer to it as a job, so i presume you are being paid to spec and complete the job to a professional standard? If you don't know how to do it why don't you just tell the client that its not your thing and politely decline the job?

Tack rags/cloths are coated with linseed oil :-)