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Thanks Tex - it's quite slow that plaster stuff isn't it? :-) Seriously, I haven't taken the old units out yet. Probably will need to look into this damp question ..thanks chaps. Dave

Around the kitchen sink we have a tiled area that's built up about 20 mm from the wall with some very hard material - no idea what. I need to chisel off some of this to make way for the end of a worktop, and the result isn't going to be neat. After fitting the worktop, I'll need to build the...

Far be it for me to pontificate (I haven't cut one yet), but this is what it says with my Wickes worktop re cut-outs: "...Then working from the decorative surface,drill through all the corners using the largest diameter drill possible, since sharp internal corners can lead to cracks forming...

Ah, right! I'm with you. Btw, I see Trend only show 2 bolts for a 600 mm WT anyway - I was originally thinking of 3 for some reason. I can see the strip would be weak, and not something you'd want to risk on a client's installation. Although, at the moment I'm thinking that if it were screwed...

Hi fitter. Sorry for being dense, but I'm not sure how you're using the bolts. Just to make sure were on the same page: there's 70 mm between the post formed edge and the edge of the sink cut-out. Taking away the 23 mm for the female mitre leaves only 48 mm for the length of the bolt...

I want to join two sections of worktop at right angles with a masons mitre. But the section of worktop with the female joint has a sink, and there's only 70 mm of wood between the post formed edge and the edge of the cut-out for the drainer. Consequently, there's not enough room for the...

Ok, I'll have to look into that. Thanks. DaveJ

I take your point Breezer, but there's not much plumbing (in theory), and a lot more of the other stuff. My aim is to cause as little disruption for my elderly mother as possible. I don't want to cut off the kitchen water right at the beginning and leave it off while I fix the floor joist(s)...

Hi Dave. Fine thanks, hope all's well with you, too. I'm still accumulating tools, equipment, and know-how before my assault on: first the floor, then the kitchen units, and finally the plumbing. So, what you're telling me, then, is that shampoo is no guide at all for silicone sealant! This...

Thanks for the run-through, fitter. I still don't understand why the routed recesses for the bolts don't have to be sealed when they're right next to the washer/dryer, though. I assumed there'd be no practical difference in the formula, and that the more expensive stuff just smelled nicer...

When you guys talk about sealing a mason's mitre joint with silicone sealant, do you mean the same stuff that's used to seal the edge of a bath/sink? I'm imagining that stuff as having no real mechanical strength(?) But the joint is supposed to be, in effect, glued as well as bolted, is it not...

Yeah, thanks. You can get 'em cheaper than that, but I've found an angle drill attachement for £18. (toolshopdirect.com). It's *not* one of those flexible things. Tested it out briefly, and seems ok. Will let you all know how well it worked when I finally get around to doing the job. DaveJ

Ok thanks. Most disappointing! I was looking for re-assurance since in addition to complicating this job, we've already had a builder (working for an ISO registered company btw) repair a joist in another room that way. The new joist is 47 x 100 mm and the damaged one, in this case, is quite a...

Hi, Sorry if this has been done before... I want to 'bolt' a new piece of floor joist to an old joist which is rotten in the middle. Do the bolt holes need to be horizontal? I don't want to hire/buy a 90 degree drill if it doesn't really matter. Also, what to use: M10 studding, coach...

For reference purposes.... Ventured into loft (bungalow btw,) and you were right Dave - the mystery cold pipe is copper..yippee! Sorry about that; what had me thinking about iron, or steel, is that some of the old pipe work is still visible in the top corner of the kitchen where there's a...

I want to install some new base units under a kitchen window, but the plaster behind the units is totally shot; it comes off in sheets exposing a grey material (render?) covering the brickwork. Is there any need for plaster there? I don't know if there's any damp in the wall particularly, but...

Sorry Dave, only just seen your question... Well, Now you ask...I don't know! The house was built before WW2, and, apparently, the original pipe work was lead. It was replaced with copper, but this kitchen cold pipe in the wall could be original because the hot is on the outside of the wall...

Ok, thanks for that, Mandate. That all makes sense. Was thinking of buying a circular saw for this. But never having used one before, and after reading about 'kick back', this may not be the best application with which to begin - I already had a bit of a phobia about CCs! DaveJ

Dave, The elbow connector is to connect to an old iron (I assume) pipe that's in the wall (the hot pipe is copper, and on the outside). I wanted to minimize the disruption and chance of complications for my 80 yr-old mother, so my cunning(?) plan is to build as much of the new the pipework...

Sorry, just to make sure I understand: do you mean I'm right in saying it's better *not* to use the batten method and instead do what the builder did with the boards half overlapping the joists? i.e. your screw/nail size is for holding down the boards? If so, but just *in case* I do need to...