Sink in the way of worktop joint

[DaveJ123]

I want to join two sections of worktop at right angles with a masons mitre. But the section of worktop with the female joint has a sink, and there's only 70 mm of wood between the post formed edge and the edge of the cut-out for the drainer. Consequently, there's not enough room for the tightening bolts. Any alternative suggestions for holding the joint together? I'm thinking of using three 75 mm T-brackets from Screwfix. Would this work? I could probably fit one tightening bolt because the drainer finishes 180 mm from the wall. I'm hoping it's still all right to make the mitre?

DaveJ

 

[fitter]

I have settled on the following, done many this way and have had no "after problems".

Once you have done the joint & cutting out and are happy that all is ok,
coat the joint with silicon, put the bolt in and tighten just enough to bring the joint together. Get the joint into it's final position and put a clamp on the over hang at the front to keep the 2 tops level. From the cutout drill a clearance hole for a no10 screw, recess the head, not too deep, I like at least 2 in. going into the second w/top (I use 4in) and use 2-3 screws. Do not over tighten the screws, just enough to bring the worktops firmly together, fully tighten the bolt, remove clamp, wipe of silicon. If you leave it until you are SURE the silicon is dry you should have no probs.

If the joint is unsupported you can put a couple of plates on.

If you have a biscuit joiner, then that would help but it is not essential.

I have made it seem longwinded but it only takes a few minutes.

 

[DaveJ123]

Hi fitter.

Sorry for being dense, but I'm not sure how you're using the bolts. Just to make sure were on the same page: there's 70 mm between the post formed edge and the edge of the sink cut-out. Taking away the 23 mm for the female mitre leaves only 48 mm for the length of the bolt recesses. But if I cut them using the Trend worktop jig, according to my calculations they would extend 60 mm into the female worktop (measuring to the back of the plastic bit of the bolt (if it's plastic)).

So are you shortening the length of the recesses in the 'female' worktop (while still cutting the recess's 'shoulders' for the plastic bits to grip onto? I hadn't thought of doing that, and can't see why it wouldn't work on it's own(?)

DaveJ

 

[fitter]

Dave.. I think we are reading the same page,

Once you have done the mitre and sink cut out, you are left with a narrow strip for about 3/4 (ish) the length of the mitre.

The problem is that you cannot use 2 of the bolts, because when cutting out for the sink you have lost some of the bolt slot & recess for the head.

If I am right, I would advise against trying to use those 2 bolts, my own feelings are that you create 2 very weak spots on a already flimsy edge,
also I'm doubtful the chipboard would stay in place once you tighten the bolts. I always leave those two slots out.

It may very well work, it's just always been something I have been unwilling to try.

I am out a good bit of today, so will not be able to help. If you do decide to use the other bolts and it works, please let me know.

 

[DaveJ123]

Ah, right! I'm with you. Btw, I see Trend only show 2 bolts for a 600 mm WT anyway - I was originally thinking of 3 for some reason.

I can see the strip would be weak, and not something you'd want to risk on a client's installation. Although, at the moment I'm thinking that if it were screwed to the base unit's front rail before tightening the bolts, then that might prevent it from being strained too much(?). I'm not actually doing this yet, so I'm trying to visualize what it'll look like.

But anyway, I think I may well use your one bolt + screws method.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

DaveJ

 

[breezer]

I think I may well use your one bolt method.

DaveJ

thats called the "unifix method"

 

[fitter]

Spot on about unwilling to do it at a customers house, I really don't think that's the best time to try out new ideas.

Good luck with the project.