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I was going to buy some of this oak L section and make a frame from it https://www.loveskirting.co.uk/flooring-thresholds-c17/by-species-c30/oak-c33/solid-oak-l-section-door-threshold-2-4-metre-p223

Has anyone done this? i’m struggling a bit!

So I’m fitting 14mm engineered click flooring, floating on 3mm underlay. i want to put a matwell by the front door. Looking out toward the front door there is a bathroom door on the left , hinge side nearest the front door (the door is off in this pic) . I was looking at 40mm wide oak L sections...

I want to put some trim along the top of tuis stringer, but this part has 3 sections and it would look better and be easier if I reduced it to two sections. Is it safe to trim the part above the green tape off the top of the stringer? It would be up to 8mm at most.

I put yellow grit on my wall and a layer of bonding on the lower half to level it (it curved) . I PVA’d the wall next day 2:1, twice then did a couple of coats of multifinish. The section over the bonding bubbled alot after the 2nd coat, and I had to wait ages to get rid of the bubbles at all...

So I’m reskimming this wall, I rolled yellow grit on it first and then levelled it up with some bonding (wall was curved) . Before I skim with multifinish tomorrow, should I PVA the bonding or shall I roll some more yellow grit on it?

Do you just use that or do you score the wall at all? Is it instead of PVA?

So I have these click engineered boards that are 2200mm x 180mm, and 14mm thick. I’m laying them on a chipboard subfloor on joists on the 1st floor. The chipboard is sound and mostly flat. The company i bought the boards from recommended 3mm rubber crumb underlay with a silver vapour barrier...

I need to skim this wall after replacing the corner bead. Its already skimmed and painted with matt emulsion which seems sound. I’ve sugar soaped and rinsed the wall. What else should I do before skimming with multifinish? Do I need to key it and PVA or something like that

Sorry , a bit confused, if the least professional Is to rip it out and put a new one in, what would the more professional fix be? I thought the least professional would be to put massive amounts of silicon sealant in there (which is what has been suggested to me so far)

So basically it's not a DIY job and I need to get a plumber out to look at it ?

There is no branding or writing anywhere on the drain unfortunately, and I can’t find it with an image search either

I don’t know how to remove the drain though

Can anyone suggest how this could be fixed?

Not sure but it feels like concrete, its on the ground floor. The drain goes to the left and into a timber/chipboard subfloor above the basement which has the soil pipe going down another floor through it (its a split level house on a hill)

I was considering squirting some expanding foam in the void to hopefully hold the tray in place and then siliconing. Is that a bad idea?

I have a walk in shower with this drain, which is not sealed at all along the back edge and the left end. There is a void visible, which water is potentially going into. The drain flexes downwards if I press it on the left side. The shower is on the ground floor, and I haven’t found any damp in...

Yeah they are slowly rotting (thats another problem cause by there being no drainage material used and the soil being piled directly against the sleepers) , but the section that looks like its sunk is fairly sound. The patio has sunk 30-50mm in that area too, maybe the ground wasn’t compacted...

I think maybe what happened is the ground has settled under parts of the retaining wall ( its a 7 year old build) . The fence posts are screwed to the outside of the sleeper wall . like in the 1st pic where the sleeper is lower on the left of the I beam than the right and the board is crushed on...

No there is air on both sides, they are on top of a sleeper wall. But I think the fence has sagged and crushed them