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Was thinking of a flexi with isolation valve on it.

What about a flexi straight to pipe coming up from floor? Any issues with doing this?

Thanks. When you say that nuts don't look correct, can you elaborate?

Hey guys, As per title? I'm getting leaks around the 15mm nuts on the small length of copper connected to the isolation valve. The obvious is to replace the isolation valve, replace the pipe and nuts and replace flexi. But that's the obvious to a novice. What would you pros do?

Many thanks mate. Yeah I am comfortable enough doing that. I'm a competent type when it comes to stuff like that but I make sure and do my homework first so as to try and avoid any mishaps. When you say "pressurising the system" can you elaborate? FYI it's a gas heating system with a Baxi...

Yeah I'm on Screwfix now getting a new TRV for it as it looks unsightly. Is this what I need? http://www.screwfix.com/p/white-chrome-angled-trv-with-lockshield-15mm/31811

Not mine I'm just doing a bit of painting. It's a council house.

Maybe I should have Googled beforehand. Not chrome piping but "valve tails". And copper pipes are earthed (or is it "bonded"?) to metal radiators to prevent shocks. Would I need a "radiator union" or "compression valve tail"?

Hi all, As the title says, here a radiator that was replaced but obviously it wasn't as wide as the last one and the plumber added what looks like a small piece of chrome pipe between the thermostatic valve and radiator, is that what it is? I want to centre it whilst I have it off for painting...

Hi mate, sorry for the delay. It's a Baxi gas boiler and hot water cylinder in "hotpress".

I witnessed it today myself when he turned on the bath tap. The water wasn't in a hurry to come out and the same with the basin in the bathroom. I am going to check the stopcock tomorrow just to be sure it isn't almost closed and check the water pressure downstairs too. Just wanted to...

So he is looking at an electrical solution such as a pump?

Hey guys, Mate moving into a council house with awful water pressure upstairs thus ruling out any non-electrical meaningful shower. Would an expansion vessel help with the problem of low pressure? If so, is it a big job? I am assuming there's a water storage tank in the attic? I will...

This we kit from Screwfix looks easy enough to fit. What's your opinions on it? http://www.screwfix.com/p/outside-tap-kit-brass-15mm-x/33139?_requestid=589429#product_additional_details_container

Thanks again for your input. Unfortunately I have never soldered in that way before and wouldn't know where to start tbh

Noted thanks and order cancelled.

Thanks for your help mate. I'm looking into what exactly your options would entail and whether I think I could do it or not.

Here's the kit I've ordered. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0084KSWGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for your reply! So say I replaced the isolation valve with a compression T isolation valve like this...

One last idea (and probably better)......how about adding a compression Y connection to here (red arrow position)?