Search results

or here http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Consumer_Units_Index/Wylex_Rewireable/index.html would that fit the bill ?

It hinges on "e.g." would they accept as competant (to issue a test certificate) a non-member of ECA/NIC but who happened to have city and guids qualifications, and/or many years experience -in that case they are OK, just misleading. If they meant 'paid up scheme memebers only' then they are on...

Not to meet the minimum requirements, unless your earth impedacne is high (TT), but it might be a wise addition if there is a risk of water and electricity mixing, but if so it should not plunge the whole house into darkness.

Hmm, its not wrong to give examples of competence to test as being NIC/ECA etc. However, I'd seek clarificationas to exactly who else can test - could you for example, or any electrician who has passed City and guilds in the wiring regs. They are on thinner ice if they want to pass on the...

Its not uncommon for the old jam jar type radio valves to soft implode if the anodes have been overrun - in fact a vernier caliper is sometimes used on second hand ones to look for signs of a hard life. (a Radio Rally flea market trick I'm afraid) After a while it looks noticabley 'sucked in'...

better wear your horseriding boots to work then. :? Oh, and don't pull the rod out with the power on unless you are wearing gloves. :shock: If you have flat cloth cap you will find it can double as a high voltage glove or a fire extinguisher if you need, as you will be working at that...

If it is in a place where it is not an eysore, but could be readily be inspected if needed (like a beam in a loft/ garage/understairs cupboard etc) then yes it is perfectly OK from a regualtions and safety point of view, but as has been mentioned it is not perhaps the neatest of methods. If...

True, but you'll get a heck of a step voltage shock if you stand by the rod with bare feet seperated by a foot or two, and when it rains that 4000watts mostly dissipated in the of earth nearest the rod may well cause it to steam and sizzle a bit :lol: (always a fun party trick -please...

The socket contacts and applience plugs and cables are protected by the 13A (or less) fuses in the plugs. Therefore the most you can take from any one socket is limited to 13 amps (~3000 watts) The MCB protects the cable against overload. If the cables are wired to form a proper joined up...

Oops fingers on the wrong line in the tables... :oops: (looking at 1.25mm) It would probably just do 4KW in 1.5mm, assuming it is mounted so it can cool itself. Mind you, the next size up would do no harm..

If you want to be re-using the existing cooker circuit, then you disconnect it at the wallplate (power off and all that) and connect you rnew cooker there. You need to tell us the power rating of your new cooker and your old one and we can tell you if the cooker circuit is man enough.. No need...

the larger one could do with the next size up of flex.

He'll see the box on the wall, and lift that slab first. Not really a problem as the cable route is visible.

yes v- I meant where the live feed from the meter goes, after the main switch. If the MCBS are off, that is where it should stop.

Exactly - my argument, the argument vindicated by the facts from the accident data from other countries, is that when you 'make things safer' by restricting DIY wiring, the effect in the bigger picture is more than offset by a rise in accidents involving all the extension lead and adapter...

To connect a new cooker to an existing circuit, without changing the fixed wiring you can do it, and not notify anyone. To add a new circuit or change the fixed wiring in the wall of a kitchen or bathroom, you either should employ a member of a self certification scheme, or do it yourself and...

no more thoughts - just a bump to keep it at the top of the list, given the two part P queries we've had recently that relate to that very scam.

If these are the only options they offer, they are failing in their duty to provide inspections themselves. (even if they subcontract this out) Contact labc serviceshttp://www.labc-services.co.uk/contactus/default.asp?editorial_id=13869 and see what they reckon. It does not have to be...

2.5mm is good for at least 20A (nearly 5000 watts say) depending on how well it can cool itself (27A in free air) 1.5mm flex is good for 12A, so 3000 watts approx. The rating should be clearly marked on the makers plate.

Still needs something to be dissipating some power though. Either, one of the MCBs is effectively bypassed, either through reverse polarity as suggested, or even that it is stuck on internally, or there is an additional load you have ommited.. If the meter is spinning noticably, you will be...