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All the arms are different a different manufacturers one is unlikely to fit?

Thanks it look like a straight one won't fit would be fouled by the sphyon. It appears to only miss it due to the offset on the fill valve

Do you mean a compact Syphon? There is no chance of just changing the arm?

Yes sorry but it would foul it when back in place if the fill valve was a straight one.

Or could I just swap the float valve arm? Are they inter-changeable

I can't see the hole in the bottom of the cistern as the Syphon covers it. The fill valve at present over sets so it misses the Syphon at the bottom of the system

Yes I can't get a fluidmaster to fit needs the offset at the bottom. Otherwise the Syphon will foul the fill valve

This type

Do anyone know any where that sells offset fill valves like this

It has mesh I think it's that / the airater falling apart

I could screw the Flexi out under the tap? And screw in a copper one?

It could be I could swap the flexis? For copper there usually M12 of kitchen taps?

I have a tap that has black bits coming out of the cold side of the kitchen tap. If it was the washer breaking down the tap would drip? Any ideas what it maybe?

I need to cap some central heating pipes in a boxing. What is best solder if can get rid of all the water? Speedfit or compression? Thanks

So shut most of the other rads back to only quarter of a turn open?

Thanks I have some temperature gauges. It's mainly 2 rads on the end of the system that are struggling. I have had all rads of and they get boiling so an air lock isn't an issue

Is the hope to get 12 degrees across each rad. Does anyone used temp clamps to do it?

This is a big system 14 rads and underfloor heating. I just wondered how far you are ment to throttle the rads down that are getting hot first.

All the rads do have trvs

When balancing rads. Mainly the upstairs to throw more heat downstairs. How far down should you throttle the locksheilds. Is a quarter of a turn open enough? Thanks