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http://www.westructure.co.uk/technical_drawings/black_drawing_s/042-use_this_detail_for_the_of_herringbone_in_solid_joists1.jpg best i can do, looks like 4x3 to me :shock: though herringbone works better on thinner joists

if i knew how to put a bloody picture up i would :roll:

agree :)

more to follow when i upload my pics

reinstatement of the rabbit arches, ashlar work and running moulds. Thans me on my hands and knees :(

responsible for all the internal lime plastering works

im not ino it the misses likes a bit of leather......... hang on, you said bonding :wink: :wink: :roll:

:( i know its a bit grim, but taste the back of the skim that popped off. it could be slight suphate or salt retention

has it been rendered on top of the rough casting? its hard to tell from the pics. Nice holly by the way :lol:

ive tried sticking hardiebacker board on with dry wall adhesive, it failed with any vibration or knocks. have you tried patching a boarded wall into it? it crazes like hell, and with a tap of a hammer, shells off. maybe it was a one off? the only thing i could suggest is to green the back of...

refina do a nice sponge float, and they have replacement sponges with velcro backs so you can change from coarse to fine. I only use them on one coat on board, matches up with lime work a treat

Richard, the only reason i say 9.5mm board is because they pull right up tight to the ceiling, the extra rigidity of the thicker boards can leave gaps betwen layers and you know you are looking at screw heads in the not to distant future.

if the artex has never been painted, the pva coat will soften the artex and end up on your head. 9.5mm board all the way :wink:

gripfill will probably only be sticking to the paint unless you can get plenty to squeeze throught the holes and slump. nog out the sides and notch the bottom so it hangs5-10mm bellow the bottom of the lintel, then cut your board for the bottom, plenty of drywall adhesive push up hard so it...

weber is crap in my honest opionion. it attracts algae etc, yes you never have to paint it but that style of house deserves better, remove the existing render which sound like its failing anyway. replace with a 2 coat lime render (lime breathes, inhibits mould, algae and other organic nasties)...

question? does the house have a) Historical merit? B) listed? as it was originally lath and plaster and you are permitted to board and skim, use 15mm board as the 3 coat lime work wil be at least 20mm thick and you will be left with and awkward patch al around the ceiling line unless you opt...

a vermiculite board on metal lath would work but in my opinion a crappy solution. Two coat lime render or weakish portland render would be a better option, the more room you have surrounding the burner the better, but as richard c linked, there are minimum clearance boundries which are there for...

1: if the tap back plate is behind the krend, how the hell do you change/repair/replce the tap???? 2: yes krend and weber do repair kits, builders merchants have cameras you know :roll:

I just had to ask myself the question "is it wrong to get the horn over a trowel?" yes it is.............but they are pretty.