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I think the material is too see through/translucent for that. It looks plastic/Resin based to me. It may be frosted/maybe a matt buffed glass with rounded edges etc. This picture is polished but I'm sure other finishes are available...

It was just a guess, maybe you have the solid Corian, not the illumination translucent series? I wouldn't have thought it would be Quartz. Maybe but I cant make out any elements on the OP's image that would indicate it. It looks too uniform. http://www.technistone.com/en/fresh-orange-en

I wonder if its Corian? As it looks partially translucent. http://www.dupont.co.uk/products-and-services/construction-materials/surface-design-materials/brands/corian-solid-surfaces.html As you can see on these images you can light it up if the density/opacity colour choice is right...

Yea the polycarbonate is the best way I think. How far from the road is the window? This might affect thickness of the material. I'd be guessing at 3-5mm. Screws wise - Just remember if you need to get out of there (not sure the window design) but it will close an escape. When I picked...

I thought toughened was tempered glass. It's made by heating the surfaces of the glass. There is laminated glass but that can present an exit limitation if you need to get out. The test below is a 5gm missile, I'd have thought a stone that small from a road wouldn't do anything, we have birds...

Isn't toughened glass more for falls against it? that's why its on landing windows and such? Incase tripping on a step. I would have thought it's for low Velocity. A stone coming from the road will be traveling at a fast speed? Toughened glass is also designed to crumble like car windows to...

Perspex (Lucite) is good, but I would say on a larger surface area get polycarbonate (Lexan) if you are having windows broken. See the video below. They use Stones and a Catapult and fire them right at it. The polycarb bounces stones off no problem. Perspex shatters...

I used2 of these kits. there is a 7.5 square metre one also. It depends where you are placing it. Remember put it on early morning first coat then wait at least 8 hours I believe. I think I did ours over the weekend to be sure. 1 Coat sat, another Sunday etc. I think if you look at my...

It's a bit late now for the weekend just gone. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-Aquaseal-System-4-5sq-EVBAQSKIT45/dp/B006FTEA9C/ref=pd_sim_diy_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1A9RGN5G787ARV3NC6NE Hope it helps

Yea I know that one, it's just trying to come up with an idea/work around to the situation. I'd always tile over it, but when there are other limitations sometimes have to find alternative routes. Tile over but leave a slightly larger band around the top of the bath? Silicone that one rather...

Sure they are ceramic? You should fly through them easily in seconds with a Pointed dip or diamond and to be honest also masonry took me seconds. Certain they are not porcelain? They are hard as nails to drill

Any updates on progress? :)

New idea, What about a new idea. Tile the entire bathroom walls, so its done before hand, Then fit a bath after, fully over that on legs. Then because its tiled the full walls, you can do what ever you like in front of the bath. If its really ever needed you could remove a bath side panel...

What about one of those shallow block paving drain sinkers? You put them in then block pave in.... for drives. You can get a shallow one also, you could tile the floor around and find tiles that will fall in to a pattern with it, square pattern I would think, or large rectangular ones. Then...

Any photos? Cheers

I picked up one of these for our 6 Coax cable runs for our full house re-wire. I ran the Cat 5e's and the Coax runs then we used this to test each end. Beeps if there is a loop. Nice and simple...

Use 22mm minimum P5 2.4m x 60cm T&G chipboard floors (18mm is ****e, I used some and put more wood over as it felt unstable with the flex), put something like celotex between the joists to insulate, make the joist spacing narrow. I would go for 300mm spacing or 400mm max between them, little...

Careful what tiles you use... If they are heavy new plaster cant support the weight. You are better off with plasterboard. But it depends on what tiles/adhesive you are using also. Cement can react with plaster so you need to prime it. Heavy tiles are best not fixing to plaster.

A few things to consider first. *It might be best to check that its not actually a leak behind the wall from pipework if there is that much damp. As even re-doing thigns the problem might re-occur. He may have used a non cement based adhesive and not left it long enough to dry before...

Nice post, hopefully puts things in to contact for some people who are not in the know etc. It didnt sound exactly cheap for the huge list of work, but again only a breakdown will give a little more info on that. I've lost track of how many times I know a friend went for the absolute...