Search results

Pretty much the same price as they all appear to be; £19.33. Like everything, Made in China. I tested and it is reading 6v, but so is the old one. The sounder beeping is quite loud, somewhat an electronic warning beep and is around two per second. Research does indicate that the sounder is...

I have fitted a new 6v NiMh battery and replaced the panel 12v battery. Everything looks good until I reconnect the panel mains power when the sounder, rather than the alarm sound, emits a loud beep, beep, beep. It is not as ear-piercing as the alarm, but certainly annoyingly loud as if it is a...

Reson 8. Pretty sure it will fit. What is the benefit of 7.2v verses the original 6v?

What ho one and all, Want to replace the 6v 330mAh Ni-MH back-up battery. The one I have removed has the following markings - 280H5A1H When I Google search for a similar, I have found 7.2v Hi-MH GP320BVA6...

Again, many thanks. Not worried about having to replace if necessary as I installed the alarm myself when I built the house. New 12v battery reading 12.87v unconnected 12.7v when connected but mains off 12.6v with mains on However, still getting a loud pulsing beeping from the sounder but...

Thank you for your advice. The panel is giving around 12.6v to the battery. Probably not significant but the sounder is also working so presumably, that is taking some power from the reading? OK, battery alone around 7.5v Battery connected but main off, around 4.4v Battery connected with...

Just watched a YouTube vid. Disconnected battery is giving around 6v and when connected to the power, around 7.5v. Does this imply the charging circuit is faulty? With the panel powered, the sounder (Ni-Cad removed) is either doing its alarm thing or some kind of lower volume warning noise...

What’s coming out of the battery leads ? Not sure I understand what this means? The control panel batter,with my replace by July 2023 sticker is giving 12.2v and the sounder Ni-Cad (probably quite old) is giving 6v. I know things go 'bad' but why would the charging output just fail? How do...

Thank you. Battery was 12.2 when disconnected and I am attempting to buy a new one (attempting because Amazon checkout is for some reason, not working!!!) Will also replace the sounder battery as it must be well past its sell by date.

What ho one and all, Leaving the house today and pressed the Set button on the Accenta Mini Gen 4 RKP, only to get an immediate beep, beep, beep from the external sounder. It was not the normal alarm sound, but certainly sound more like a warning noise. Additionally, the red 'power' led on...

In theory, it is not too complex but the blurb implies that the trigger wire from the back of the screen should be connected to the trigger wire on the video connector. Since the number plate harness switches, I assume that the trigger wire is already fitted back to the harness. I'm trying to...

What ho one and all, I have a Mazda3, 2015 hatchback with a factory dash mounted screen. It does not have a reversing camera and I would like to fit one. Transpires, all the wiring is in place, just no factory fitted camera. A standard ebay item is this; it comes with an additional harness...

Couple of extra questions. Have been researching for a replacement Reson8 bell box and seems difficult to find these days. Would another make be compatible with the power requirements? In the control panel instructions, I can apparently opt to test the various items, (walk test, sounder...

Thanks for your reply. I don't know if the strobe works when the alarm is ringing, but it used to give a couple of flashes at the end of the exit count-down. Regarding it not working, the flash is so weak that behind the blue plastic, it has always been virtually nothing.

What ho one and all, I have a Accenta mini Gen4 and Reson8 Bell Box. All works just fine but....! Recently noticed after the exit beeps, when the strobe should flash a few time, it does not. It used to do so. My guess is the strobe tube needs replacing. Is it worht doing so or just buying...

I hear what you are saying and the unthreaded section with the bolt head would come out easily, but what about the threaded part, which now, has nothing to apply anti-clock rotation? See my post 22 for a poor photo of the clamp

As I said above, that cannot work. The bolt is threaded into the knuckle; if cut in half, there is nothing to unscrew the threaded part. As it happens, my mobile welding guy not only welded a larger nut but also used oxy to heat the knuckle and it bolt came out easily, All reassembled now...

Yes, I do know it is a common problem but the first time I have encountered it big time. Plus, I don' t have a welder or oxy. I will grind a slot in one of the old bolts and use it to attempt to clear out the thread a little.

Thanks for the advice. Took the struts to a local mobile welder who welded on a large nut and used oxy on both sides of the pinch. Quenched with water and within a few seconds, the rust 'weld' had been broken. Will work back and forth tomorrow but essentially, job done.

Gentlemen. Thanks for all the advice. Been to a local mobile welder today; he put a large nut onto the bolt head and use oxy on both sides of the pinch, followed by water. Breaker bar and it just came loose with in seconds. Will work them gently tomorrow but job done without drilling. So...